Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra North, Anti-Atlas
Paul Donnithorne on Cosmic Corner 5.11b, on Titan'...
A fantastic 'winter sun' trad climbing destination. Mountainous but with a 'cragging' feel. Varied routes on predominantly solid quartzite. Approach times from 2 minutes to an hour. Single pitch to multi 8+pitches long. All aspects though many north faces (a relief at times for escape from the hot Moroccan sun!). Descents mainly by easy scrambling off the back of peaks, though many abseil descents on the shorter routes.
Developed mainly by Brits and originally on the south side of Jebel el Kest - see Claude Davies' guidebook Moroccan Anti-Atlas, from 1991 onwards, but activity since 2007 has taken place mainly on the north side and on Jebel Taskra north (at a rate of knots!) - Still plenty of scope for new routing, with many of the routes also not having seen repeats as yet. An area still in its infancy...
Must do routes: Tusker 5.6, Sisters of Mercy 5.8, Voyage of the Beagle 5.9, La Linea D'Ombra 5.9, Em's Cleft 5.9, To Teo 5.9, Black Beauty 5.10a, Firesword 5.10a, Shruikan 5.10b, Titan's Chimney 5.10b, Golden Compass 5.10b, Sungold 5.10c, Leaving Las Vegas 5.10c, Crackerjack 5.10d, Arctic Monkey 5.10d, Orgasmatron 5.11a, The Mighty Logan 5.11b, Hammer Finger 5.12a.
Best place to stay is the Kasbah Tizourgane near Ida Ougnidif - all areas are between 10-40 minutes from here. Email Malika at email@example.com for booking. Only other places to stay at present are in Tafraoute, though this is up to a good hour from the 6 main areas. Only place which serves alcohol is les amandiers hotel in Tafraoute, though it is possible to stock up in duty free before departing (or in Agadir) and take this to the Kasbah, who are most accommodating about the use of alcohol (please respect this).
All information for routes available in the brand new definitive guidebook Morocco Rock, detailing around 1,000 climbs from 5.3 to 5.12b - see moroccorock.com
(postage to the states £10).
Fly to Agadir and hire a car (essential) from the airport. Detailed maps in Morocco Rock guidebook.
Weather station 8.5 miles from here
4 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Oct 25, 2012
A gorgeous looking guidebook! Great photos, nice photo route overlays. An intro. essay by Chris Bonington himself. Daydream fodder - the whole package.