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Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 16'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 7,159
Submitted By: Joe Brophy on Nov 3, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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This problem haunted my dreams for 6 years after f...


This classic problem takes a proud line directly up the middle of the large boulder near False Up 20 (V0-), and sits directly across the road from Double Cross. Depending on how tall you are there are a few different starting holds, but thin holds are the name of the game on this problem. Don't breath too hard as you might blow yourself off the crux, but as you hit that last hold with your right hand, rest assured that the final throw for the lip might look far but that hold is huge!


You will want 2 pads if you are working this by yourself. If not, 1 pad and a good spotter will do. It's probably about 15' high.

Photos of JBMFP Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself high steppin' on JBMFP
Myself high steppin' on JBMFP
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting ready to grab the lip on JBMFP  Photo Cred...
Getting ready to grab the lip on JBMFP Photo Cred...
Rock Climbing Photo: Reardon fires--Acopa
Reardon fires--Acopa
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping JBMFP
Topping JBMFP
Rock Climbing Photo: JBMFP Topo

Comments on JBMFP Add Comment
Show which comments
By Crack Addict
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 9, 2005

Technical and painful. A Josh classic. Love this problem!
By Adam Stackhouse
Jun 27, 2007
rating: V5-6 6C+ PG13

No matter the starting holds one chooses, the crux comes at the end, which has spit off many talented climbers. Another desert classic.
By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 3, 2008

15' high
By NDTitanLady
Apr 17, 2012

  • phew* Finally finished this amazing climb.

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Oct 4, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Titan - Why are you climbing sideways? That's looks sketchy....jk

; )
By Matt Michael
From: Oceanside, CA
Dec 20, 2013
rating: V5+ 6C+

Much harder for me than the neighboring False Block Head Sit Start (Also Rated V5), but so much better
By Nathanael
From: Riverside, CA
May 5, 2016

Starting hold is a goner as of 5/5/2016. Not guilty; found it this way.

Rock Climbing Photo: JBMFP starting hold
JBMFP starting hold
By Russ Walling
May 5, 2016

Prolly the aftermath of those drytoolers from Pacoima.
By T. Stark
From: Los Angeles, CA
May 7, 2016

Saw the right hand start hold blown off when I went by it today... a shame for sure.
Aug 21, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: JBMFP start sequence with broken hold
JBMFP start sequence with broken hold

The hold that broke was not a part of the regular start sequence. The broken hold is shown in yellow. The normal start holds are in red, the starting foot is blue. Magenta marks where the left hand goes on the first move. Every hold that is part of the route is still intact as of 8/20/2016.

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