Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The South Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T,S 
Bad Boys Bolt T 
Beer for Breakfast T 
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 
Birdland T 
Black Market T 
Blackstreak TR 
Dirty Love T 
Fun Flake T 
Funkativity T 
Go Spuds Go T 
Good Girls Don't T 
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 
Shadow Dance S 
Slab Happy S 
Sugar Mountain T 
Two Minds Meet T 
Wigs on Fire T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Craig Luebben, Bob Gobell, Gerry Huitt, Robyn Bunch, 1989
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jazzman climbs the line of bolts as for Birdland, ...

Description 

Jazzman shares a start with Birdland, but continues straight up after the second bolt through thin, crux terrain through the third bolt. Nice edges continue up through an incessant line of bolts until a second crux (9/10a) is encountered in a depression higher up the wall.


Location 

Jazzman climbs the face just left of the arete formed by Beer for Breakfast's dihedral. The start, shared with Birdland, is easily identified by a bedazzled pothole about five feet up the wall, beneath the first bolt.


Protection 

Something like 12 bolts protect this line, so bring a bunch of quickdraws. It unfortunately received retro-bolting treatment from the same folks who took care of Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry (hardware's the same).

Per Mojo Stylee: As of Feb. 19, 2011, most of the bolts, including the anchors, have been removed from this route.

Per Neil Wachowski: there are now 6 bolts left.



Comments on Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mojo Stylee
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Feb 22, 2011

As of Feb. 19, 2011, most of the bolts, including the anchors, have been removed from this route.

By Neil Wachowski
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 29, 2012

Six bolts still remain on this route, which matches the guidebook description. If you wish to secure the (easier) portion of the route after the bolts dry up then bring a small cam or medium stopper or two.