Jay Walker 5.7+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Jay Dautcher - 1985 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Nov 18, 2006 |
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JenT looks on as I take a rest with my leg firmly ...
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Description The Dixie Cragger's Atlas gives this a 5.7 rating (and three stars), but I consider this a slight sandbag. As one fellow leader describes it, Jay Walker can be a "grunt" if you're not a proficient jammer. Smearing, stemming and chimney moves will help, but hand jams are vital, so you might want to tape up.
Starting in a long left-facing corner, Jay Walker follows two roughly parallel cracks with great protection. Climb the crack systems, then move up and left to finish at new anchors above a cave.
Location Starts 10' right of Finger Lockin' Good. Rap from anchors above the cave.
Protection Medium to large cams and tricams, hexes would probably work. Bolted anchors.
Nice chance to rest the feet.
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Jaywalker 5.7
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By 426
Mar 8, 2007
| A bit painful on the hands and feet, but more staightforward than other routes of a similar grade... |
By Benjamin S.
From: Fairview (Nashville), TN
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.7
| This was my first ever lead about 11 years ago, and I've climbed it sveral times since then. Nice stone, mega easy to protect. The I feel that the 5.7 grade is pretty true; but I love the security of stemming in dihedrals. There are actually a pair of anchors near the small cave between Finger Lockin' Good and Jaywalker...passing the anchors to the top just gets scrubby, and turns to aggregate. *(great route to fly up and set T.R. to work out Finger Lockin' Good to the left) |
By Alex Rogers
From: Sydney, Australia
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.7+
| I'm not a great crack climber, and found the jams solid & secure - feet got a bit painful tho! I found all the climbs at T-wall full value for the grade. What a nice climb |
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