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While this route only checks in at a mere 5.8, you'll find it to be a worthy outing if you enjoy clean wide cracks. The grade doesn't reflect the nature of the climbing - it feels BIG in every sense of the word.
Belay on a good ledge at the base of the offwidth which is about 70' off the deck (gear: chockstone, two .75's which may be tricky to find, and/or #5 Friend.) There are two ways to get to this point: either climb directly up (5.11), or traverse in from the left (5.7+).
The first 1/3 is typical OW with some good feet, then the feet go away. Get in and grunt or LB the nice edge gunning for a melon-sized chockstone 10' up. Past the chockstone the crack is wide enough to get inside, eventually becoming a "comfortable" squeeze chimney. You'll now be inside the chim for the remainder. There is pro in there, too. Top out and belay from boulders and bushes on the col. To walk/climb off go to climbers' left, stepping down right and around to gain a short low angle handcrack then up slab to the ridgetop and a small plaque. Hopefully you left your packs on the main ridge that you can now see.
On the north side of Neptune, locate the obvious offwidth in a right facing corner. Traverse in high from the left across a blocky/bushy ledge, then onto the face and around the corner to gain the dihedral. Top out and walk off up left.
Bring out the big guns. Cams from .5"-6" Doubles from 3"-5" might come in real handy, though it's mostly squeeze chimney.
Adam P. coming up near the top of the pitch.
jaws at sunset
Route seen from near the base of Neptune
|By Brent Silvester|
Jun 30, 2008
To start, I'll tell ya it's the best 5.8 that I've done on that mountain. Really interesting climbing, getting you into places very few climber, let alone people ever see. It is especially exciting to struggle half way through the chimney, and look up the crack to see a sliver of sky. Extremely fun climbing.
From: Waterville, ME
Mar 19, 2010
perhaps i outa go
|By Clay Mansfield|
Jun 5, 2012
I haven't done this climb yet, but if you are comfortable at the grade, I would recommend the first pitch of Jimmy Dean to get to the belay for Jaws. The crux is down low at a bolt (5.11) and the rest is pretty well protected, be it with bolts or gear. It's fun climbing and the alternate 5.7 traverse looks sketchy and pretty fuzzy.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Jul 3, 2012
A #6 will take all the fear out of this route. No need to have OW technique if you commit to another option. Knee pads make it a lot more fun.