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The East Quarry
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Wooly Bully S 

Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Cichon
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 614
Submitted By: mike c on Nov 28, 2010

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Description 

Like all the trad routes here, this one can be a serious undertaking. Most of the placements are safe for body weight...a few are good for falling, but be careful. There is one bolt after the crux section before the roof. I drilled the bolt on lead by hand off a Beak. It took two serious tries to complete the first free ascent. There are awesome and sustained tips locking crux with some stem moves to boot...definitely my most proud route there. A beautiful addition to the area's trad portfolio...could be easier or harder than the grade I listed...a repeat will reveal more.

Locaton 

This is just right of Jaws and left of Herringbone Direct .

Protection 

All gear and one bolt....one #0.75 Camalot at begining, next the smallest C3, backed up with a beak, then a really good yellow Alien which I backed up with a #0.4 Camalot, then a red Alien at the crux...and then the second smallest C3 (desperate) and or a pretty good but shallow #0.75 Camalot again. Next a 3"x3/8" stainless steel bolt. Above and left it is possible to then place a purple (#0.5)Camalot on a shoulder length runner or skip it and gun it up on manky face holds to solid green Alien protected, kneebar, roof exit moves...it is nice to have a belayer you can trust.


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By mike c
From: nederland
Nov 28, 2010

Like all the trad routes here, this one can be a serious undertaking. Most of the placements are safe for body weight...a few are good for falling, but be careful. There is one bolt after the crux section before the roof. I drilled the bolt on lead by hand off a Beak. It took two serious tries to complete the first free ascent. There are awesome and sustained tips locking crux moves with some stem tricks to boot...definitely my most proud route there. A beautiful addition to the area's trad portfolio...could be easier or harder than the grade I listed...a repeat will reveal more.
By mlloyd
From: denver
Feb 14, 2013

One of the best routes on the wall, safe and full value. A must do if you like this style of climbing.