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Jaws II 

YDS: 5.15a French: 9a+ Ewbanks: 36 UIAA: XI+ British: E11 7c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.15- French: 9a+ Ewbanks: 36 UIAA: XI+ British: E11 7c [details]
FA: original:Dave graham 10/98, Jaws 2: Vasya Vorotnikov 10/07
Page Views: 14,123
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 28, 2010
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dave graham on the long upper crux.

Description 

I would love to have someone who has been on it describe it, but till then I need somewhere to put some photos of the route.

Basically the route used to be 5.14b then 2 key holds broke off, one off of each crux. Now there are two very had cruxes, the lower one being harder from what I hear and the upper one being a dyno/deadpoint.

Very steep climbing on some very small holds that are sometimes very far apart.


Location 

Left of the China Beach on the big kids wall, left side of Wiamea.


Protection 

8 bolts to anchor



Photos of Jaws II Slideshow Add Photo
I love this one of Dave Graham clipping. We dont all know what its like to climb like him but most of us can relate to this...
I love this one of Dave Graham clipping. We dont a...
snapshot of Mike Foley on the outro crux of Jaws II. <a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>
snapshot of Mike Foley on the outro crux of Jaws I...
Daniel Woods sticking the upper crux move...
Daniel Woods sticking the upper crux move...
Dave Graham setting up for the big move on a tiny side pull
Dave Graham setting up for the big move on a tiny ...
Enzo Oddo working Jaws II.
Enzo Oddo working Jaws II.
Screen grab of Mike Foley on the "V12" crux of Jaws II. I may post more images following publication of similar images... <a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>.
Screen grab of Mike Foley on the "V12" crux of Jaw...
Enzo Oddo working Jaws II.
Enzo Oddo working Jaws II.
A moody picture of Daniel Woods... but im sure he was happy after sticking all the moves on his first time on the route...
A moody picture of Daniel Woods... but im sure he ...
Enzo Oddo working Jaws II.
Enzo Oddo working Jaws II.
Close up of Daniel Woods after the bussiness section, but it still looks hard...
Close up of Daniel Woods after the bussiness secti...
Enzo Oddo working Jaws II.
Enzo Oddo working Jaws II.
Comments on Jaws II Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 7, 2013
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 18, 2010



Vasya sending Jaw II!

By James Otey
From: NH
Sep 28, 2010

According to Vasya, its a V12/13 boulder problem to tiny right hand pinch, followed by a v6 "rest." After the rest, huck a massive v10/11 deadpoint and then finish up with the top iron cross move on China beach and then mop up the rest of the 5.12 outro.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 28, 2010

thanks otey, i thought thats what he had said but wanted to play it safe...

By S. Neoh
Sep 28, 2010

For the lack of a better place to ask the question - did any of the big boys try the Bill Clinton Project?

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 28, 2010

Also did anyone repeat this route?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 28, 2010

no one got on bill clinton...
and no one sent jaws but with the bad conditions Daniel Woods put in a really good show on Jaws... if he wants it im sure he could get in in cold dry temps....

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 5, 2010

Daniel Wood comments from 8a.nu:

"2nd asc. spent a few days on it a couple years ago and did it 3rd day this year. Hard route to grade and very specialized.

The breakdown is a 2 move 8A+ for the first crux followed by a mini 12d into a 7C+ lurp dyno move. both cruxes involve around one low percentage move each. the outro section is around 8a. At first I thought 9a but after falling off the 2nd crux twice and having to fight in good conditions, I thought this could be harder. Psyched route season begins."

By James Otey
From: NH
Dec 7, 2010

Daniel on the 2nd ascent of Jaws II

www.deadpointmag.com/climbing-videos/watch/daniel-woods-clim>>>

By James Otey
From: NH
Jul 24, 2011

I belayed Mike Foley on the 3rd Ascent today!

Video:

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 24, 2011

Damn, he has gotten strong. Rumney is all climbed out for him now. Poor guy is going to have to climb up Jaws, traverse China Glide and back down Livin Astro for a challenge..or maybe refree Mr. Gerbick or learn how to stick to Bill Clinton's belly. (..or continue pushing the grade of barefoot Rumney climbing. 13a is the hardest so far that I know of.)

Congratulations, Mike.

By S. Neoh
Jul 24, 2011

Darn, I saw him in the Parking Lot at 6.30p today and did not congratulate him. I did not know he had just sent Jaws II. Big props to Mike. I have always liked him; such a great 'kid' (I can say that because I am old).
No worries, Mike could always stay out West next summer and show the locals at Rifle a thing or two. Or he could come back and free BIll Clinton. My guess is Zebby won't mind.

By Emmett Lyman
From: Washington, DC
Jul 24, 2011

We were next door on Flyin H when Mike sent it. He stopped by afterward - really cool guy and modest about the send. Congrats Mike - hope to hear more awesome sends from you in the future!

By levin.jo
Nov 7, 2013

Andrew Palmer - Jaws II

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