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Chief Broken Wing 
Jaws Arete 
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Jaws Arete 

V6

   
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Type: Boulder, 15 feet
Consensus: V6 [details]
FA: ???
Submitted By: half-pad-mini-jug on Aug 5, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Jables sending the Mandíbulas.
Photo: L. Bowlin.


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Description 

Stand start with a hand on the rounded bump with a crimp on it (at about 7 feet) and pinching the arete. Move up the arete on crimps and slopers to apex of the nose and 'beach whale mantle' yourself to the top. Really good.


Location 

This is on the same formation as Quarter Inch Master but on the opposite end. The arete that looks like a shark's head from the west. It is hard to miss.


Protection 

Pads, spotter. There is a back-breaking boulder in the landing zone, so have an attentive spotter.



Photos of Jaws Arete Slideshow Add Photo
The green line. <br />Jables after sending. <br />Photo: L. Bowlin.

BETA PHOTO: The green line.
Jables after sending.
Photo: L. Bo...



Comments on Jaws Arete Add Comment
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By Will Anglin
From: Sykesville, MD
Aug 5, 2010

The stand start has been done, though I am not sure of the first-ascentionist or original name. The sit-start has seen attempts but never a send.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Aug 6, 2010

Thanks for the info, came close on the sds, but it's burly. I'd figured the stand had been done, it's such a striking feature and the stand isn't that hard, but the sds is where it's at. I'll be back soon.

By pedropeacock
Apr 16, 2011

It's been done before.

By Will Anglin
From: Sykesville, MD
Apr 27, 2011

The sit has been done before?

If you are referring to the stand start, we figured it had been done long before us. Do you recall the original name?

We figure pretty much everything obvious, accessible, moderate, and of good quality was done decades ago, even if we are now just rediscovering it.

By Jamie Estep
From: Crested Butte, CO
May 4, 2011

If Pedro... said it's done, I would believe it.

He and Bernholdtz and a bunch of others pounded out just about everything under 5.14 in the entire county by about 12 years ago. I was breaking into the 5.13 range here at the time, and there was pretty much nothing left for a first ascent, less Lake City.

I will definitely agree on the frustration of climbing and naming at Hartmans though. Some of those problems have waited years, or decades, for second attempts for sure. Great to see some hard climbing going down. I can't imagine a V10 here just due to the type of rock. If it goes, it's definitely something to be proud of.