Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
2. Duet Area etc
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Add Libs 
All Day Sucker 
British Were Coming, The 
Condemned Man 
Continuation of Rock Candy 
Dreamin' 
Duet 
Duet Direct 
Fall from Grace  
Jawbreaker (not completely done)  
Light Brigade, The 
Lightning Crack  
Pops-Sick-Hill 
Raven Crack 
Rock Candy 
Rodan 
Sam's Ghost 
Sam's Swan Song 
Sayonara 
Sextet 
Shadey Grove (unfinished) 
Sinister Satisfaction  
Slow and Easy 
Sticky Fingers 
White and Young 

Jawbreaker (not completely done)  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b A3-

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b A3- [details]
FA: Bradley White and Craig Young 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,333
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Fell nearest to top off and a pin held midway down...

Description 

climb up the obvious incipient crack that splits the head wall above and to the right of All Day Sucker and just left of the Quartet dike. Be equipped with knife blade pitons and short lost arrows. I believed everything was going fine while I was leading it on aid. The pins I had placed appeared to be fine but as I was about to put in the eighth and last pin, the piton I was standing on came out and three more blades came out after that. Consequently I stopped falling on the fifth piton down from where I had been. Fell 30+ft or the whole distance of the head wall. I came to a stop where I had started from about 15ft above Craig belaying me, centimeters from crashing my head off on the platform terraced ledge. Rappelled and on another day placed a bolt on rappel midway. Now this pitch shouldn't kill anybody but it's still in the (A3-4) range. Most of the climb has (5-13,14) potential. excellent granite and if ever free climbed the crack wouldn't be utilized. It's off sized edge would be the handholds for an extreme lay back.


Location 

Above Quartet Terraced platforms and left of the dike is this beautiful head wall.


Protection 

various small knifeblades and short lost arrows. fixed pins are in lowest section and 1 bolt in the upper middle section. It's not safe and it isn't as bad as it was.



Comments on Jawbreaker (not completely done) Add Comment
Show which comments
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jul 16, 2009

What are your thoughts on this climb? Can more pitches be had? I'm into hard aid, as long as I have room for the fall.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Aug 27, 2012

It would join up to do the finishing pitches of 'Pop Sick Hill' since that was the original line to the belay and this hasn't been done. Next pitch would be very dangerous on trad gear only and possibly not doable without bolts. The line should continue up over the bulge that is cracked to an inclined groove corner. Here the corner becomes a dike with rounded holds (doesn't look proper for sky hooking. After dike a shallow overlap will bring the leader to a large left facing corner. Midway up this corner right is a excellent platform ledge. From there on up the climber will be just right of 'Fugue' upper pitches that are now rotten. I used binoculars on the W.G.R. to look at these details. This long dike pitch above 'Jaw Breaker' without the right equipment is a death pitch.