Jawbreaker  5.7 A3-4

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Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.7 A3-4 [details] FA:  95% finished aid route New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  bradley white on Jun 23, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

climb up the obvious incipient crack that splits the head wall above and to the right of All Day Sucker and just left of the Quartet dike. Be equipped with knife blade pitons and short lost arrows. I believed everything was going fine while I was leading it on aid. The pins I had placed appeared to be fine but as I was about to put in the eighth and last pin, the piton I was standing on came out and three more blades came out after that. Consequently I stopped falling on the fifth piton down from where I had been. Fell 30+ft or the whole distance of the head wall. I came to a stop where I had started from about 15ft above Craig belaying me, centimeters from crashing my head off on the platform terraced ledge. Rappelled and on another day placed a bolt on rappel midway. Now this pitch shouldn't kill anybody but it's still in the (A3-4) range. Most of the climb has (5-13,14) potential. excellent granite and if ever free climbed the crack wouldn't be utilized. It's off sized edge would be the handholds for an extreme lay back.

Location 

Above Quartet Terraced platforms and left of the dike is this beautiful head wall.

Protection 

various small knifeblades and short lost arrows. fixed pins are in lowest section and 1 bolt in the upper middle section. It's not safe and it isn't as bad as it was.