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Jaw Breaker 
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Jaw Breaker 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Daryl Allen
Page Views: 1,042
Submitted By: Mike Diesen on Jan 7, 2009
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Check out the cool chalk bag I picked up at Summit...

Description 

Challenging vertical line that goes up between Hot Tamale and Pop Rocks almost sharing holds with Pop Rocks at one point. Half way up is a fun and well - protected crux, after which, the climb eases up eventually ending at a roomy ledge with chain anchors. Continuing up to the summit is another 40 feet or so that starts up a dihedral with 9+ moves easing up immediately after pulling onto the ledge. Another two bolt chain anchor will let you bring up your second safely. A 70m rope will get you down from the top anchor but don't expect to TR the entire route from there. Pulling your rappel line from the top anchors is best done from on top the boulder 30 feet back from the wall. Walk off to the north or double rap if using a 60m.


Location 

Steep blocky face right of Hot Tamale.


Protection 

bolts, Mid point and top anchors



Photos of Jaw Breaker Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling through the slightly overhanging, leaning corner on the top pitch was well worth it.
Pulling through the slightly overhanging, leaning ...
Sara climbing Jaw Breaker.
Sara climbing Jaw Breaker.
Comments on Jaw Breaker Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Aug 13, 2009

Definitely a one-move wonder route; most of it is 5.8. Crux is smack dab in the middle.

By Boodge Nomchompski
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

One move wonder, for sure, but I found this route to be less "permanent" than Hot Tomale. I also think the crux move on this route is harder than any single move on Hot Tomale...I give it the same difficulty rating and 1 less star.

By Tim Hadfield
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Jan 12, 2012

Climbing the second pitch is well worth it!