|Type:||Sport, Alpine, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Andy Ross & Gene Vallee|
|Submitted By:||apross on Oct 1, 2011|
|Comments on Java Man||Add Comment|
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By Roy Suggett
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
|Perhaps I was just having a bad day...I hope so...but after my second move, I could not stay on this route. The transition from the north face on to the arete and then up and back (see photo) is/was beyond my comprehension. I got really woked and badly spanked on this early section. The rest of the climb was great!|
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
To echo Roy's comments, the moves through the first few bolts are of the "in your face" variety. I ended up making several long off-balance throws to thin holds on the left face and wasn't too thrilled about swinging back around the corner. A thank-Jeebus undercling rest brings you back on the right side of the arete before firing up another crux.
The yellow face is a treat, there's just enough stuff there to keep the climbing reasonable.
The headwall is intimidating and wild, the moves getting in and out of the crack are among my favorite sequences anywhere.
Sep 27, 2012
Great line with great moves. A bit friable at the moment but should clean up with more ascents. There are enough decent small holds that climbers competent at technical vertical face may find this to be nearer 10+.
There is another great crack at the other Jungle, don't know the name, sorry, which starts thin hand and ends fist, overhanging a couple of degrees all the way. Superb rock, stout for mid 10 and a highly recommendable physical challenge. Bring a #4 camalot for high up and try not to hang on it.