Java as seen from Atlantis.
Java Dome is really three distinct faces, North, South, and West. Its south face is home to a decent selection of lower-end difficulty, slab routes. These routes are basically bolt-protected. The rock quality on this south face is fairly good. There are a few routes on the west face as well which require traditional pro. Fortunately, there are rarely crowds here. Enjoy.
L->R: North Face (Grey Wave Wall)
- best approached from the Atlantis Slab
A. Clear Lycra
, 10+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
, 10 R, 1p, 150', bolts.
C. El Nino
, 10 PG-13, 1p, 150', bolts.
D. Burley Dudes
, 11+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
E. Way Jingus
, 11, 1p, 150', TR.
F. Traditionalists at Work
, 9, 1p, 180', bolts. West Face
- approached from either Atlantis Slab
or Bali Dome approaches
A. Rock Lobster, 10 S, bolts & gear.
B. Banzai Pipeline, 9, gear.
C. Big, Ugly Chimney
, 9 X, 1p, 165', gear.
D. Banzai Escape, 8, gear. South Face
- best approached from the Bali Dome approach
A. Beach Blanket Bingo
, 10, 1p, 80', bolts (Leeper hangers).
B. Vertical Beach Party
, 9 S, 1p, 130', bolts.
C. The Unhead, 6 VS.
D. Quit Yer Beachin'
, 6 R, 1p, 160', bolts.
E. Route 5.6
, 6, 1p, 130', bolts.
From Denver, go West on US Hwy 285, go South (left) on Foxton Rd, this Ts at the South Platte River, head East (left) to South Platte, then it curves South, go 3 miles. There is a prominent, large boulder across the South Platte River just North of the parking area. Park where legal. 2 drainages can be hiked up. The North one has Atlantis Slab a short way up. Choose the South drainage. Hike 20 minutes or so. Find the South face. Scramble up and around some boulders to find this route on the right side of the South face.
Weather station 2.4 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Java Dome
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Java Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Java Dome:
Featured Route For Java Dome
Hammerhead 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
: South Platte
: ... : North Face
This route should be called hammertoes, cause your feet are going to get crippled. Now that I think about it though, it will hammer your head while you contemplate cratering from several difficult locations.... Hopefully it won't hammer your body if you actually do cut loose at an in-opportune moment.Make your way up to the first bolt on fairly easy climbing, clip it, tighten the velcro on your shoes, and launch upwards. The next 2 bolts are a good distance apart with brutally sustained climb...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: A closer view of the rock.
Jul 20, 2010
Leo, can you break the Java Dome down into 3 sub-sections:
North Face (Grey Wave Wall)
and then put traditionalists at work on the north face and big ugly chimney on the west face? The north face routes are more easily accessed from the Atlantis Slab approach, the south face from the Bali Dome approach, and the west face probably from either approach.