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Java Dome

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North Face 
South Face 
West Face 

Java Dome Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.38173, -105.16531 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,240
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 19, 2006
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Java as seen from Atlantis.

Description 

Java Dome is really three distinct faces, North, South, and West. Its south face is home to a decent selection of lower-end difficulty, slab routes. These routes are basically bolt-protected. The rock quality on this south face is fairly good. There are a few routes on the west face as well which require traditional pro. Fortunately, there are rarely crowds here. Enjoy.

L->R:

North Face (Grey Wave Wall) - best approached from the Atlantis Slab

A. Clear Lycra, 10+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
B. Hammerhead, 10 R, 1p, 150', bolts.
C. El Nino, 10 PG-13, 1p, 150', bolts.
D. Burley Dudes, 11+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
E. Way Jingus, 11, 1p, 150', TR.
F. Traditionalists at Work, 9, 1p, 180', bolts.

West Face - approached from either Atlantis Slab or Bali Dome approaches

A. Rock Lobster, 10 S, bolts & gear.
B. Banzai Pipeline, 9, gear.
C. Big, Ugly Chimney, 9 X, 1p, 165', gear.
D. Banzai Escape, 8, gear.

South Face - best approached from the Bali Dome approach

A. Beach Blanket Bingo, 10, 1p, 80', bolts (Leeper hangers).
B. Vertical Beach Party, 9 S, 1p, 130', bolts.
C. The Unhead, 6 VS.
D. Quit Yer Beachin', 6 R, 1p, 160', bolts.
E. Route 5.6, 6, 1p, 130', bolts.

Getting There 

From Denver, go West on US Hwy 285, go South (left) on Foxton Rd, this Ts at the South Platte River, head East (left) to South Platte, then it curves South, go 3 miles. There is a prominent, large boulder across the South Platte River just North of the parking area. Park where legal. 2 drainages can be hiked up. The North one has Atlantis Slab a short way up. Choose the South drainage. Hike 20 minutes or so. Find the South face. Scramble up and around some boulders to find this route on the right side of the South face.

Climbing Season

For the Deckers area.

Weather station 2.4 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Java Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Java Dome:
Webster-Ellis Route?   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Face
Quit Yer Beachin'   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Face
Traditionalists at Work   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   North Face
Platte Magic   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   North Face
Hammerhead   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   North Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Java Dome

Featured Route For Java Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: The type of bolt on the route.

Hammerhead 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CO : South Platte : ... : North Face
This route should be called hammertoes, cause your feet are going to get crippled. Now that I think about it though, it will hammer your head while you contemplate cratering from several difficult locations.... Hopefully it won't hammer your body if you actually do cut loose at an in-opportune moment.Make your way up to the first bolt on fairly easy climbing, clip it, tighten the velcro on your shoes, and launch upwards. The next 2 bolts are a good distance apart with brutally sustained climb...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Java Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A closer view of the rock.
BETA PHOTO: A closer view of the rock.

Comments on Java Dome Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Administrator
Jul 20, 2010
Leo, can you break the Java Dome down into 3 sub-sections:
North Face (Grey Wave Wall)
West Face
South Face

and then put traditionalists at work on the north face and big ugly chimney on the west face? The north face routes are more easily accessed from the Atlantis Slab approach, the south face from the Bali Dome approach, and the west face probably from either approach.

Thanks

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