Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Java Dome

Select Area...
North Face 
South Face 
West Face 

Java Dome Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.38173, -105.16531 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,944
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 19, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Java as seen from Atlantis.

Description 

Java Dome is really three distinct faces, North, South, and West. Its south face is home to a decent selection of lower-end difficulty, slab routes. These routes are basically bolt-protected. The rock quality on this south face is fairly good. There are a few routes on the west face as well which require traditional pro. Fortunately, there are rarely crowds here. Enjoy.

L->R:

North Face (Grey Wave Wall) - best approached from the Atlantis Slab

A. Clear Lycra, 10+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
B. Hammerhead, 10 R, 1p, 150', bolts.
C. El Nino, 10 PG-13, 1p, 150', bolts.
D. Burley Dudes, 11+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
E. Way Jingus, 11, 1p, 150', TR.
F. Traditionalists at Work, 9, 1p, 180', bolts.

West Face - approached from either Atlantis Slab or Bali Dome approaches

A. Rock Lobster, 10 S, bolts & gear.
B. Banzai Pipeline, 9, gear.
C. Big, Ugly Chimney, 9 X, 1p, 165', gear.
D. Banzai Escape, 8, gear.

South Face - best approached from the Bali Dome approach

A. Beach Blanket Bingo, 10, 1p, 80', bolts (Leeper hangers).
B. Vertical Beach Party, 9 S, 1p, 130', bolts.
C. The Unhead, 6 VS.
D. Quit Yer Beachin', 6 R, 1p, 160', bolts.
E. Route 5.6, 6, 1p, 130', bolts.

Getting There 

From Denver, go West on US Hwy 285, go South (left) on Foxton Rd, this Ts at the South Platte River, head East (left) to South Platte, then it curves South, go 3 miles. There is a prominent, large boulder across the South Platte River just North of the parking area. Park where legal. 2 drainages can be hiked up. The North one has Atlantis Slab a short way up. Choose the South drainage. Hike 20 minutes or so. Find the South face. Scramble up and around some boulders to find this route on the right side of the South face.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Java Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Java Dome:
Webster-Ellis Route?   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Face
Quit Yer Beachin'   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   South Face
Traditionalists at Work   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   North Face
Platte Magic   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   North Face
Hammerhead   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   North Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Java Dome

Featured Route For Java Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: The route is where the rope is.

El Nino 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13  CO : South Platte : ... : North Face
Another Tim Hudgel slab classic, this is a great slab route. This is the 3rd route from the right on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall.Start up on easy climbing with good edges and ledges to clip the first bolt. Head upwards past another 7 bolts with terrific climbing and numerous cruxy spots. I thought this route was a fair bit easier than Hammerhead but no less classic. There seemed to be more stances to re-group and recover. It is definitely better protected, but the average c...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Java Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A closer view of the rock.
BETA PHOTO: A closer view of the rock.

Comments on Java Dome Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Administrator
Jul 20, 2010
Leo, can you break the Java Dome down into 3 sub-sections:
North Face (Grey Wave Wall)
West Face
South Face

and then put traditionalists at work on the north face and big ugly chimney on the west face? The north face routes are more easily accessed from the Atlantis Slab approach, the south face from the Bali Dome approach, and the west face probably from either approach.

Thanks

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!