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The Wasteland
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Automatic Leg Spreader 
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Java Creek 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 28, 2010
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Despite the overwhelming popularity of the Wasteland, this route sits forgotten. Unpolished and with a short crux at the very bottom, this might be worthwhile for those looking for a far less committing 12b than something like Easy Skankin'. With that said, the quality is much lower. To start, stick clip the second bolt (the first no longer has a hanger), push the bushes out of your way, and get ready to boulder to the third bolt using one painful undercling along the way. From here, the difficulty drastically diminishes.

There is a first anchor at the 80' mark, but for full credit continue to the second set of anchors near the coveted Wasteland summit. A 70m rope *might* get you down from the second set - watch it closely, or just re-lower from the midway anchors.


This is the farthest right route in the Wasteland.


10-12 draws to the first anchor. 19 draws to go all the way to the top.

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