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Dungeon Stick Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)

 
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The Dungeon Stick. Look for it near the base of the main wall or perhaps around the corner near <a href='/v/new_mexico/los_alamos__white_rock/los_alamos_crags/105986944'>(11) Crimp Chimp</a>.

The Dungeon Stick. Look for it near the base of th...

Locate a small rock that will open the bolt-end carabiner gate pretty wide. The goal is to open the gate way wide, leave a bit of the carabiner's nose exposed and pinch off the gap where the gate meets the carabiner's spine. <br /><br />Also, note the bolt carabiner is facing left. Because of the orientation of bolt hangers, this is the optimal orientation.

Locate a small rock that will open the bolt-end ca...

With rock in place, clip climbing rope through rope carabiner. Careful not to backclip.

With rock in place, clip climbing rope through rop...

The Dungeon Stick has a couple of nubbins on the tip which are nice to hold the carabiner in place. Place the tip of the stick, with nubbin, up underneath where the gate pinches to the spine.

The Dungeon Stick has a couple of nubbins on the t...

With extra rope slack through the rope carabiner, gently lift The Dungeon Stick up towards the second bolt of the route of your choice.

With extra rope slack through the rope carabiner, ...

Navigate the carabiner's nose into the hanger. Once on target, give a sharp pull or two on the climbing rope to snap the carabiner into place and pop the rock out.

Navigate the carabiner's nose into the hanger. Onc...

Done! Tie in and "red point" that route!

Done! Tie in and "red point" that route!