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Whippoorwill
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Jason and the Arguenots 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 303
Submitted By: Tino Fiumara on Mar 14, 2011
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Description 

Great little route for boulderers. Stick clippin the first bolt is advisable, as the first moves are strong and the landing horrible. All together there are some bad fall possibilities here, but the clipping stances are great, just don't pump out with and handful of slack, mid-clip. The V4 crux at midheight is a great little boulder problem.


Location 

At Whipporwill, just to the right of Stop the Presses, Mr. Cater; 2 routes to the left of Masuka.


Protection 

5 bolts and anchors - 2nd bolt hangar is currently present (3/11)



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By BrianWS
Jan 14, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

Good rock, three cruxy sequences separated by good rests, and heads-up clips.
There is good groundfall potential going to the 2nd bolt -- hanging a long draw with a stick beforehand would be a good idea if you aren't solid at the grade. Blowing the 4th clip would be nasty, too.