|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 200'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Lowell Anderson, Dave Page, Jim Stoddard. FFA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson|
|Season:||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Submitted By:||jonah on Jan 27, 2006|
|Comments on Japanese Gardens||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Jul 2, 2006
|You can do just the first section at 5.9+ and stop at the chains. A small TCU is useful to protect the last move before the chains. This is a fine, short outing requiring a bunch of different techniques. For protection bring one set of cams TCUs-#4 Camalot and some nuts.|
Jul 3, 2008
Above the first pitch, there are 3 more pitches of excellent 5.11 climbing:
Pitch 2: A short jam/lieback that gets progressively harder until the last move (.11b). Ledgy climbing leads to an anchor up and right.
Pitch 3: Step left and enter a flare with a fingercrack (.11a). Physical jamming leads up around the left side of a roof and up a slab to a belay.
Pitch 4: A slab leads to steeper slab climbing through left-facing corners and arches (.11c). Easier (.9) slabs then lead to a belay at the top of the wall.
As of '07 they are squeaky clean and climbable again thanks to mammoth cleaning efforts by Ben and Ryan. Kudos!
This climb, complete to the top of the wall, is absolutely *****!
By L Stern
From: Golden, CO
Jul 12, 2009
|We were able to rap from the top of P3 using a 70m rope (one 60m may work too).|
Mar 6, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
|A 60m will only work if you stop at the hanging belay half way up pitch 1.|
By Douglas T
Jul 5, 2013
|The long pitch 1 (to the 2nd anchor) is my favorite single pitch of climbing anywhere, requiring wide cracks to finger/pin scars and solid face climbing. The gear is great too.|
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
|If you have fat fingers like me, be prepared to battle at the first thin fingers crux. Even when I stick the fingerlock, it feels like my fingers are not really in there. So much fun!!|