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Foreign Territory
Routes Sorted
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Beaver, The T 
Great Gapsby, The T 
Japan Club T 
Nasty Crack T 
Topside The Daisies S 
Walking up to Zion T,TR 
Wild Thing T 
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Japan Club 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Paul Piana, Mark Ilgner, 1983
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Japan Club viewed from Nasty Crack.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Japan Club has three distinct sections: flared fingers, flared hands, and a lieback. The opening flared finger portion is thin and balancy, but will accept reasonable pro in the form of stoppers and small cams. After overcoming the thin crux, enjoy a short section of good flared hands (in both main crack and side crack) before the crack peters out. Good foot cams move you into position to grasp the semi-solid lieback and high step on decent feet to glory.


Located 40 yards to the right of Wild Thing. We walked off by climbing almost to the top of the crag and traversing climber's left, eventually downclimbing as per Walking Up to Zion and Wild Thing.


Set of stoppers, small cams. A BD #4 can be placed in the roof next to main crack if the small pro doesn't ease your mind.

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By bart cubrich 1
Apr 8, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Stopper protect the main crack pretty well after you do the crux.

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