Climb the well-protected 5.7 crack to the top of a corner and swing out to climber's right over a small arete. Move up and left to an ascending hand traverse. The traverse is the crux and feels a lot trickier than it looks. Then ascend a slightly rotten corner system to ledges where you can move left to an anchor of slings around a block wedged in a crack.
This route begins in the finger crack to the right of January Playmate (obvious hand crack) and just around the corner from Heart of Gold (bolted face).
Recommend two three-inch cams for the traverse, one for the start and one for the finish.
I don't like the anchor on this one. The block is wedged into the crack but clearly detached. I backed it up with three cams (0.75, 0.5 and 0.3) for the belay. For the descent, we scrambled up and right about 50 feet to a tree with slings. From there, by rappelling to the east (climber's right, not straight down) you can rappel to the bolts on Rush Buick.
A 60m rope does not reach the ground from the tree.
By Ivan Rezucha From: Fort Collins, CO Mar 17, 2010 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a PG13
I was gripped following the hand traverse. The handholds are slanting and slick, and there are basically no foot holds. If the second falls off he would end up below the roof. If the leader falls off he would swing right and below the roof, but might be able to get back on.
The post for January Playmate mentions descent bolts out left. We didn't see any, and the Steve Levin Eldo guide doesn't mentions the flake with slings but no bolts.
By Phil Lauffen From: The Bubble Feb 14, 2011 rating: 5.9-5c17VI16HVS 4c
Those moves on the arete moving left are way cool. Very exciting definitely on both ends of the rope.
We ended up topping out on a spire and doing a ~20m rap to the anchors on Rush Buick from a small tree with a bunch of slings on it. Mildly sketchy IMO.