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 ADVANCED
Hawk-Eagle Ridge
Routes Sorted
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Anthurium S 
ATC T 
Body Lice TR 
Bold Finger T,TR 
Bowling Alley T 
Brother Jug T 
Central Park T 
Cinch Crack T 
Comeback Arete, The T 
Crab, The T 
Cracker Jack T 
Dead Left T 
Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) T 
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Die Heeda Rule T 
Emergency Brake T 
Grim Reaper T 
Grubble Gully T 
Hangman, The T 
Heart of Gold S 
Heva TR 
Hooker T 
I've Been Sick T 
Inflorescence S 
January Playmate T 
January Rush T 
Larch, The T 
Leapfrog T,TR 
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Low Profile TR 
Nails to Nowhere T 
Nobody's Home T 
Pepe le Peu T 
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Peters Out - Roof Variation T 
Plinth T,TR 
Prime Time Climb T 
Resisting Arete T,TR 
Roof's Way T 
Rupee Dog Route T,TR 
Rush Buick T 
Russian Arete T 
Self Abuse T 
Shallow Grave T 
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Slide, The T 
Squeamish, The T,TR 
Stay Hungry T 
Stranglehold T 
Tombstone T 
Uninspiring Wall T 
W 
Walk About T 
Werner Brothers' Roof T 
You'll Poke Your Eye Out T 

January Rush 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Duncan Ferguson, solo
Page Views: 139
Submitted By: Luke Clarke on Mar 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the well-protected 5.7 crack to the top of a corner and swing out to climber's right over a small arete. Move up and left to an ascending hand traverse. The traverse is the crux and feels a lot trickier than it looks. Then ascend a slightly rotten corner system to ledges where you can move left to an anchor of slings around a block wedged in a crack.


Location 

This route begins in the finger crack to the right of January Playmate (obvious hand crack) and just around the corner from Heart of Gold (bolted face).


Protection 

Recommend two three-inch cams for the traverse, one for the start and one for the finish.

I don't like the anchor on this one. The block is wedged into the crack but clearly detached. I backed it up with three cams (0.75, 0.5 and 0.3) for the belay. For the descent, we scrambled up and right about 50 feet to a tree with slings. From there, by rappelling to the east (climber's right, not straight down) you can rappel to the bolts on Rush Buick.

A 60m rope does not reach the ground from the tree.



Comments on January Rush Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 17, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

I was gripped following the hand traverse. The handholds are slanting and slick, and there are basically no foot holds. If the second falls off he would end up below the roof. If the leader falls off he would swing right and below the roof, but might be able to get back on.

The post for January Playmate mentions descent bolts out left. We didn't see any, and the Steve Levin Eldo guide doesn't mentions the flake with slings but no bolts.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Feb 14, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Those moves on the arete moving left are way cool. Very exciting definitely on both ends of the rope.

We ended up topping out on a spire and doing a ~20m rap to the anchors on Rush Buick from a small tree with a bunch of slings on it. Mildly sketchy IMO.

This is Eldo adventure climbing.