This climb starts off as a really nice crack climb, from fists to tight hands. The crack leans to the left avoiding a roof, after which you can traverse right and finish up on rotten rock. A better option is to traverse left across the slab below the huge roof and join the crux for Self Abuse. With the use of slings this could all be done in one pitch without too much rope drag, and if it wasn't for a small section of bad rock, this would probably be one of the better pitches of crack climbing in Eldorado.
This route is in the dihedral just uphill from the bolted route Heart of Gold and just downhill of the obvious roof of Self Abuse.
A standard rack with a #4 Camalot, if combining with Self Abuse, bring doubles in #2 and #3 sized Camalots.
By Eckhard From: Denver, CO Dec 28, 2008 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
This climb is GREAT!! Little to no wind, starts off on a nice off-width. Face climbing at the top. The rotten rock appeared to be the top to us, which created a nice walk to some rap bolts to the left about 15ft. Stellar climb, stout too!
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Feb 5, 2010 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
This is a good climb. The rotten rock is found traversing right and a few moves above. The finish is on very solid stone and follows a thin crack to a nice belay ledge. The bad rock is only a short section and no worse than the "rotten bands" of rock crossed by other Eldo routes.
By Clint Locks From: Boulder Feb 17, 2011 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c PG13
Fun. Remember to save #0.75 and #1 Camalots for the anchor if doing the direct finish (thin crack after pulling right around the roof). Gear is sparse after the roof.
Nice climb, but the middle bit was creepy. The bottom part (hand and fist jamming) is great - good pro and relatively sustained. Then you pull the huge roof by traversing right on jugs to a huge horn that you can wrap a sling around for pro, but above the horn, you've got to face climb up and slightly left with no pro - gently grabbing a rotten flake along the way until you can finally slot a small wired and a purple Camalot in a little undercling above the rotten band. If you fell before the undercling (which could easily happen if the rotten flake gave way), you'd fall all the way down past the horn - nasty! Above that, it gets good again as you ascend the finger crack. So, yes it's a great climb, but tread lightly in the middle!