|183 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus: ||M7-8 [details]|
|FA: ||Luke Lydiard January of 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||luke Lydiard on Feb 5, 2013|
Luke Lydiard climbing Jango Fett.
This route climbs the right side of the narrowest part of Lee Vining Canyon as you hike up to the classic ice climbs. The route starts in a shallow dihedral on the left side of the face and pulls through a 4 foot roof to join a crack system.
From the ground you can easily see a line of four bolts which protect the crux roof and initial crack. The route follows the bolts to the right and switches to a more substantial crack which takes gear for the rest of the route.
The first bolt is clipped blindly from a secure tool placement in the dihedral. You shouldn't need any gear before the first bolt. You might need your belayer to line up the first bolt for you since it will be hidden just above the lip.
There is a two bolt anchor with chains at approximately 100 feet. To toperope the route you can walk around to the left, traverse to the shelve above the route and rap about 80 feet from the large half dead tree above.
The route was equipped top down by Luke Lydiard with help from McKenzie Long and Ali Feinberg in the winter of 2011/2012. First redpointed by Luke Lydiard in January of 2012.
In a heavy ice year this route gets some verglas on the on the upper cracks however it is climbable without any ice. First summer accent is still up for grabs.
Hike up from the power plant to the narrowest part of the canyon and look for the bolts above the roof on your right.
Four QDs for the bolts and then cams from BD #.3-#1. Heavy on BD #.75 and #.5.