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Kris Solem climbing Jane's Addiction, ca. 1995.
This is a semi-classic Josh sport climb that's well worth doing if in the area. The start is a little reachy (and may seem stiff for shorter climbers), but the upper moves on steep edges are so good and really are what make this route so good.
Anchors are on the top a few feet back so you'll need to walk off this climb (to the climber's left). Three stars out of five.
Directly across from the Exorcist facing east and readily identified as a short, steep brown wall.
4 bolts to anchors (3/8") The fixed pin that used to protect between the first and second bolts has been gone for many years, but really isn't necessary.
Had to go back for the redpoint. Really a fun litt...
Ben L. after taking a particularly bad fall off of...
BETA PHOTO: Jane says...
|Comments on Jane's Addiction
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Dec 24, 2005
Easily set up as a TR. Rounded reachy crux before entering the face above, then at the 3rd bolt (or so, as I recall) another crux while moving right. Nice route with nicer rock.
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 5, 2009
Steep sport climbers, such as myself, are attracted to this route, but I'm not enthralled by it. It's OK. If you're looking for great sport climbs in this area, face away from Jane's Addiction and walk 100m to Love Goddess, Moonshadow, and La Cholla - harder but better routes.
Jan 5, 2009
I would think steep sport climbers like yourself would onsite this without a bolt to bolt warm up.
From: La Jolla
Jul 22, 2009
FA was Ken Ariza
From: New York, NY
Feb 22, 2010
Has anyone climbed Jane's lately? Am going back for redpoint attempt this weekend... help me get psyched!!! Am nervous due to new soreness in right arm!
|By Nick Barczak|
Feb 7, 2011
I redpointed Jane's this past Sunday. I know the rating stands at 5.11b, but it felt a touch harder than Uncle Remus, which I think is rated the same. Both are about the same length and reasonably similar style. Anyway, really fun route. Just wish it were longer.