|Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Approaching from the east the route starts 30 feet past the wall art, which is marked by a built up ring of rocks. The climb is in a large left-facing dihedral with a distinct no feet offwidth at the beginning. The short offwidth start has good foot holds outside the crack after the first 5 ft. This leads to almost endless small hand jams through two somewhat steeper sections. The last 40 ft. is less than vertical and icing on the cake. 3 bolt anchor, 170 feet.
BD Camalots: 6 #1, 4 #2, 2 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 #4, and 1 #3 Big Bro (optional)
J. Lantz getting his workout on.
|Comments on Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 19, 2004
The true name for this route is Sheila Lonestar and the first ascent party was Leonard Coyne and Jimmy Dunn
|By Rob T|
Sep 11, 2006
a 70 m rope barely got us down yesterday. probably should knot the ends.
|By Rob Kepley|
Feb 3, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jane Fonda opened up a big can of whoop ass the day I got on this one. Tough start for sure. This crack just never seems to end.
From: San Jose
Apr 16, 2007
With 70 m rope you can not safely reach the ground. Use trail line or two ropes
|By rob bauer|
From: Golden, CO
Mar 2, 2010
Maybe an interesting story? My buddy Steve Lynn & I did this on 5-25-81. We cleaned the start a lot and led until I ran out of gear (Didn't have enough to get a full pitch, or a decent end point; certainly not high enough to put in an angle.) I pulled up rocks in a stuff sack, tied a sling and belayed off a rock and my last Friend. (Note, we used river rocks which we harvested the night before. We'd used sandstone rocks on another climb the day before--WAY to scary!) Anyway, we thought it was a new route at the time. [I've always wondered whether someone finished this and just spent a couple of hours looking at slides to figure it out.]
edit: In retrospect, if we'd really been hardmen, we would've swapped gear at the hanging belay and continued, but it was hot and we were beat. We still needed 2 ropes to bail. Somebody must've got a kick out of that anchor.
Mar 5, 2010
i remember that anchor. is it still there?
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
You can TR this route with an 80m rope the climb is only ~140 feet.
Rack beta seems really off. I would go with at least 4- 2.0 Friend/Black Metolius, 8- #1 camalots , 2-3 #2 camalot, 2-3 #3 camalot, 1 #4 camalot. Also a big piece like a #5 of #6 (or both) would not go unplaced in the starting chimney. Lots of gear but a long climb!