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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,188
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Mar 24, 2002

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Mike at the second crux, up high climbing through ...

Description 

Approaching from the east the route starts 30 feet past the wall art, which is marked by a built up ring of rocks. The climb is in a large left-facing dihedral with a distinct no feet offwidth at the beginning. The short offwidth start has good foot holds outside the crack after the first 5 ft. This leads to almost endless small hand jams through two somewhat steeper sections. The last 40 ft. is less than vertical and icing on the cake. 3 bolt anchor, 170 feet.


Protection 

BD Camalots: 6 #1, 4 #2, 2 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 #4, and 1 #3 Big Bro (optional)



Photos of Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout Slideshow Add Photo
J. Lantz getting his workout on.
J. Lantz getting his workout on.
Comments on Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Mar 31, 2002

Nice on-sight Brian!!!!!

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 19, 2004

The true name for this route is Sheila Lonestar and the first ascent party was Leonard Coyne and Jimmy Dunn

By Rob T
Sep 11, 2006

a 70 m rope barely got us down yesterday. probably should knot the ends.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Feb 3, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Jane Fonda opened up a big can of whoop ass the day I got on this one. Tough start for sure. This crack just never seems to end.

By Alexey
From: San Jose
Apr 16, 2007

With 70 m rope you can not safely reach the ground. Use trail line or two ropes

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Mar 2, 2010

Maybe an interesting story? My buddy Steve Lynn & I did this on 5-25-81. We cleaned the start a lot and led until I ran out of gear (Didn't have enough to get a full pitch, or a decent end point; certainly not high enough to put in an angle.) I pulled up rocks in a stuff sack, tied a sling and belayed off a rock and my last Friend. (Note, we used river rocks which we harvested the night before. We'd used sandstone rocks on another climb the day before--WAY to scary!) Anyway, we thought it was a new route at the time. [I've always wondered whether someone finished this and just spent a couple of hours looking at slides to figure it out.]

edit: In retrospect, if we'd really been hardmen, we would've swapped gear at the hanging belay and continued, but it was hot and we were beat. We still needed 2 ropes to bail. Somebody must've got a kick out of that anchor.

By roundhead
Mar 5, 2010

i remember that anchor. is it still there?

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

You can TR this route with an 80m rope the climb is only ~140 feet.

Rack beta seems really off. I would go with at least 4- 2.0 Friend/Black Metolius, 8- #1 camalots , 2-3 #2 camalot, 2-3 #3 camalot, 1 #4 camalot. Also a big piece like a #5 of #6 (or both) would not go unplaced in the starting chimney. Lots of gear but a long climb!