|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Mark Bauer and Ryan Curry|
|Season:||Fall, winter, and spring|
|Submitted By:||Milton Mugambe on Apr 19, 2010|
|Comments on Jammin' for Jehova'||Add Comment|
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By Colonel Mustard
Oct 27, 2012
I wouldn't belay off that pine tree, it's a bit too bushy with jabbity needles. We set an anchor directly below the start. As mentioned, it's a bit junky starting the climb, but then you pull into the left leaning crack and it's jam after glorious jam. Strenuous though, as the man says. Great stuff!
The only problem is I kept going up the formation instead of taking a right at the end of the tasty crack climbing (where I can only assume the anchors are) and trended into basically 4th class terrain. I missed the anchors completely. Instead, I got a 180' or so pitch in.
We ended up scrambling directly down (not down the way we'd come) a ways to get off, and then slung a solid tree (I left a bootied biner and two shoulder length slings). It's a one rope rappel using a 70m (but a 60m would also work, you'd just scramble a bit more) to then scramble down to the first Smearing for Jesus anchors.
There are some truly wild looking cracks up there, I can't wait till the new guidebook comes out!
From: Reno, NV
Nov 12, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|I agree with the Colonel. Keep moving up past the tree to the base of the climb at a nice sandy ledge. You can set a few smallish pieces there. Be care moving up past the Weak Stick anchor, there is a lot of loose rocks. As well, be careful getting into the crack initially, it's a steep pull over on stacked blocks that will smoosh your partner if set loose. After a few dirty moves the jamming goodness begins!|