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James Brown's Wild Ride 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob Floyd, 1995
Page Views: 1,909
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 21, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: View of the full route, Pascal + Mirthe.

Description 

James Brown is the left of two parallel lines 50 feet or so right 80 feet of Meat. This is another fine line on largely good stone; however, like may routes on this wall, the rock can kick up suspicious chunks that are are a bit off-putting on the sharp end (Personally, I also thought it was spacey getting to the first clip - others may disagree). Lots of crimping on a nearly dead vertical wall with very high continuity generates a largely excellent line. James Brown also gets a bit spacey in the middle, the difficulty does back down here for a short way, however, compared to Sex Machine, James seemed to demand more mind control - pretty cool until the pump starts to set in.


Location 

James Brown is the left of two parallel lines 50 feet or so right 80 feet of Meat.


Protection 

Eight to ten (Eds. now 11) draws and a rope.

Per Jeremy H: it was re-bolted, but they found that a couple of the original bolts were in hollow rock. They had to make a choice to make the run outs way longer or to add more bolts. We are only allowed to climb in the canyon because the town of Rifle allows it. If someone got hurt because it was re-bolted in a dangerous way, it could jeopardize climbing in the canyon for everyone.



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Mirthe on route.
Mirthe on route.
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 31, 2003

In case anyone cares, it's more like hard-ish 11 than 12a. So don't let a silly # dissuade you or persuade you. Mostly, you just have to keep your wits about you, a ways above your previous bolt...the moves themselves aren't too hard, but _are_ fun. Still has chains (no biners) at the top.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 1, 2003

Have to agree with mp, feels more like hard eleven.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 23, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

This is a fantastic route. When climbers are tripping over each other to warm up on Cold Cuts and 80 Feet of Meat, this route will likely be free. Sure, it's not a great warmup because it's pretty thin, but it gives you a chance to climb a beautiful, long line up a relatively untraveled part of the canyon.

By PTZ
From: Chicago/Colorado
Jan 31, 2011

I consider it like Rumor has its big brother. A bit harder with a little more finesse. Great thinker's route. You will not have to line up for a ride on this one.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I really enjoyed this route: very technical, with continuous and engaging movement. Not at all runout anymore, 10-11 bolts to chains. I agree it's closer to 11d than 12a.

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 4, 2011

This route was rebolted with glue-ins in the past few years so it no longer has the runouts and now has 11 bolts.

By Tom T
Apr 18, 2013

Anyone know who changed this route and why? My apologies in advance if it was the FA that put in the extra bolts or if there is a good reason I don't know about. But....

This climb was memorable, safe, and exciting before. I haven't done tons of routes at Rifle. However, this one in particular was unique and one I've always remembered because I had to try desperately hard with some air underneath. In fact, the only reason I went to this description was to get a little palm sweat going at work.

It reminds me of a time when I was little. My mom took me to this park that had an ammmmmaazing slide. We got there and learned that the awesome slide had been replaced with a short, lawyer-approved, sissy slide. I still remember the disappointment. That's how this feels.

By Jeremy H
Apr 21, 2013

It was re-bolted a few years ago. Unfortunately when they went to put the bolts in the same location, they found that a couple of the original bolts were placed in hollow rock. They had no choice but to move them to more solid rock. Because of this, they had to make a choice to make the run outs way longer or to add a couple bolts. The longer run outs could have been dangerous, so they added the extra bolts. We are only allowed to climb in the canyon because the town of Rifle allows it. If someone got hurt because it was re-bolted in a dangerous way, it could jeopardize climbing in the canyon for everyone.

By Tom T
Nov 29, 2013

Thanks for the info, Jeremy. Makes sense.