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Begin about 8ft right of the much better, safer, and easier route, Jerry Brown
. Work up crux face holds to an easier crack above, merging with Brown 25
near the top.
Almost everyone will probably just TR this thing, but if you're really psyched on leading it, the bottom does not really take good pro. Some small RPs can be placed, quite awkwardly at that as the openings tend to be where your hands are, but in reality the good gear doesn't come until high up when most of the difficulty is over. Very "R" if not "X" rated.
SR with an emphasis on small gear, i.e., RPs
By Adam Stackhouse
Dec 4, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Definitely was a TR problem for me