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Sunnyside Bench
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackballed S 
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Bummer T,TR 
Jamcrack T 
Lazy Bum T 
Lemon T 
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Raisin T 
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Tiny Tim T 

Jamcrack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Loyd Price, Kim Schmitz. FFA: Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen.
Page Views: 7,664
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (237)
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Looking up at Jamcrack from the base. Second pitc...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Up on the right side of Sunnyside Bench, climb a nice, smooth, 5.7 jamcrack to a ledge. Step left and continue up a 5.9 thin crack to a two bolt anchor.
Can be done in one or two pitches.

Protection 

Pro to 2".


Photos of Jamcrack Slideshow Add Photo
Jack Doehring on "Jamcrack", 1975. Photo...
Jack Doehring on "Jamcrack", 1975. Photo...
"Jamcrack Route". Photo by Blitzo.
"Jamcrack Route". Photo by Blitzo.
Paul Petersen leading the second pitch, 1980.
Paul Petersen leading the second pitch, 1980.
Tyson G on jamcrack
Tyson G on jamcrack
5.7 First Pitch
5.7 First Pitch
Jamcrack sweetness
Jamcrack sweetness
Chuck Wilfley following the second pitch with Paul...
Chuck Wilfley following the second pitch with Paul...
Jamcrack on a mellow rainy afternoon...
Jamcrack on a mellow rainy afternoon...
Chuck Wilfley in the 5.9 section of the second pit...
Chuck Wilfley in the 5.9 section of the second pit...

Comments on Jamcrack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 3, 2015
By Dennis
Mar 11, 2008

Climbed Jamcrack this weekend for the second time in 10 years. It was so much fun! Best to leave a long sling on the last piece before the ledge and combine P1 and 2.
By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
May 21, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun Climb! Didn't feel like a Valley 5.9 though-maybe 5.8. Good pro, solid stances and fun climbing.
By Linnea Williams
Oct 4, 2009

Nice, well protected, fun climbing. I'm a fan.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climbing. First pitch is great for budding trad leaders.
By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 2, 2010

Fun climb although the nice crack on the second pitch is a little short. You can TR a few fun 10s as well from the top of the 1st pitch.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 16, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I climbed this with an Aussie climber, Harry Burr, and Greg Ervin. I led pitch 1 and Greg took pitch 2. Fun climb, cool and sunny day.
By Will Wilson
From: Morganton, nc
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I love the climb but it was soo polished, especially at the beginning of the route.
By Worster than you
From: Lafayette, CA
Mar 24, 2013

If the p1 bolts are camped, you can make a good gear anchor at the top of p1 crack w/ 0.5 camelot and the metolius range below that.
By Crimpanzee
From: San Francisco, California
Nov 17, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Personally, I think the hardest part of Jamcrack is the first 15 feet of the first pitch. It's polished and steep for 5.7, and I would call it more 5.8. I think the second pitch is just about as hard as this section (and a little easier than other 5.9 pitches in the valley).
By Ferisimo
From: San Diego, California
Jul 3, 2015

Very straightforward and fun. P1 felt like it lied in the 5.7-5.8 range with bomber placements everywhere. Secure feet the whole way up P1 makes this an awesome pitch for new trad leaders. The second pitch was where all the fun was though. Solid hands gives way to a short 5.9 finger crack section right before you're interrupted by the chains. Plug up P1 with as many #1s and #2s as you want. Then bring some smaller gear for P2. I believe the short finger section was protected well with a .3 and .4. A .5 and .75 would be helpful in the middle of P2.

If you choose to build an anchor on top P1, bring a .4, .5 and .75, though I'd recommend setting a redirect and traversing left to use the anchors below P2.
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