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Turret Rock and Environs
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Jambrosia T 
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Jambrosia 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Gary Axen, Rich Thompson
Page Views: 1,253
Submitted By: kBobby on Dec 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Jambrosia Tower. The climb Jambrosia 5.8 takes th...

Description 

As you approach the area as described above, you will go under a big slab boulder. This is the "tunnel" I described in the approach. As you go through this, the rock to your right is Jambrosia Tower. The route Jambrosia is on the far side of this tower (South). There is a left-facing corner near a large pine tree. This corner is Just For Grins, 5.6*. Just to the left of this corner is a steep hand and fist crack that appears to be an offwidth (trust me, its hands and fists). This crack is Jambrosia. Climb this in one pitch to the chimney. You can wriggle up to the top and descend via chains on the East side OR you can wriggle across it to a small pine tree, and walkoff/downclimb to the north and back above the "tunnel".

Protection 

The route appears wider from the ground than it really is. Cams up to about #2 Camalot should suffice. You may want a double of #1. You shouldn't need small stoppers or small cams.


Photos of Jambrosia Slideshow Add Photo
The beginning of the steep section.
The beginning of the steep section.
Mark finding the good jam.
Mark finding the good jam.

Comments on Jambrosia Add Comment
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By mark loseth
From: tucson, AZ
Feb 3, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

an actual crack climb at Mt. Lemmon! great lead for the 5.8 leader; good gear, steep section at the top and good jams. it's only downfall is that it is just too short! also an easy scramble to chains on east face, and a bunch of moderate routes on the tower and in the immediate area for the moderate leader. fun spot.
By Bane
From: Flagstaff AZ
Apr 1, 2013

I don't know if I would call this as "a great crack climb" which is how it was described to me. The majority of the route is awkward groove climbing with the last 10 feet or so being a hand crack. If you want to get some fun easy jamming in on lemmon I would suggest Solders Revenge at Hidden Jewels.