Jam Left  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  tobias on Jan 20, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The route "left crack" Takes the long jagged crack...

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Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is on the Peapod Buttress, or "south face of Bitty Buttress." It's left of and up from Bitty Buttress by about thirty-forty yards. It's sheltered by a couple of average-sized evergreens, but still gets good sun in the winter. The route is the middle of the three cracks, to the right of a couple of newer bolts and the route Jaguary.

This is a short but rather burly route. I'd have thought it was a 10.... There's a jam left, yes, but there's also a good jam right just above it. Placing gear burned me a bit, but all that's needed is 3-4 cams. There's a rappel anchor above and to the right, perfect for top-roping "Last crack on the right" if interested.

The short, pumpy routes here are worth jumping on if you're in the area for Bitty Buttress and want to turn it up a notch, or want to work some tougher lines while staying close to the ground. "Jam Left" is not starred in "Boulder Climbs North", but I thought the crux sequence was a fun grunt and good way to end the afternoon, so I gave it a couple.

Protection 

Cams #1.5-2.5.

Photos of Jam Left Slideshow

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Jamming on jam crack right (10a).