2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route is on the Peapod Buttress, or "south face of Bitty Buttress." It's left of and up from Bitty Buttress by about thirty-forty yards. It's sheltered by a couple of average-sized evergreens, but still gets good sun in the winter. The route is the middle of the three cracks, to the right of a couple of newer bolts and the route Jaguary.
This is a short but rather burly route. I'd have thought it was a 10.... There's a jam left, yes, but there's also a good jam right just above it. Placing gear burned me a bit, but all that's needed is 3-4 cams. There's a rappel anchor above and to the right, perfect for top-roping "Last crack on the right" if interested.
The short, pumpy routes here are worth jumping on if you're in the area for Bitty Buttress and want to turn it up a notch, or want to work some tougher lines while staying close to the ground. "Jam Left" is not starred in "Boulder Climbs North", but I thought the crux sequence was a fun grunt and good way to end the afternoon, so I gave it a couple.
By James Beissel From: Boulder, CO Nov 2, 2009 rating: 5.9+5c17VIE1 5a
I don't think there is an anchor for this route.
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Nov 9, 2013 rating: 5.9+5c17VIE1 5a
There is no bolt anchor for this route or to its immediate left. You can easily make a gear anchor, and there is a large block you can sling. The D'Antonio guide shows there is an anchor that is not there. The only bolt anchor is above Razor Hein Stick.