This is the leftmost route on the crag. Start just right of a little pine tree below a roof with a left-trending hand crack. Climb cracks and face to the roof, work up the hand crack to the left, and continue to the top.
This route is basically a one move wonder. The only section of the route that resembles a 5.8 is when you have to go over the several foot, slightly overhanging crack, but this move felt more like 5.7 to me. The rest is a walk in the park.
Bring mid-sized cams for the TR anchor and for the roof crux.
Mark at the crux of Jam It
Mark Manago under the crux.
Lee Rittenmeyer leading Jam It.
|By William McGehee|
From: Choctaw, OK
Sep 29, 2003
If you want to experience the 5.8(+) part, don't use ANYTHING but the crack to pass the roof. I led it the other day, then TR-ed it so I could try the crack alone. Made me fall. I was humbled. Second attempt no problem, but at least those looking for a harder lead can give that a shot.
|By Charles Danforth|
From: L'ville, CO
Oct 20, 2003
As has been mentioned before, it's a one-move wonder. But that one move was trickier than I had expected. The crack wasn't great for jamming (at least for someone with large hands like mine) being a bit flaring, smooth and at entirely the wrong angle. Laybacks are possible but pumpy. A better (cheating?) option is to reach up and about 2' right of the top of the crack to the jugs and just mantle it. Nice climb, but far from the best at the rock.
From: The Shrew, MA
Jul 21, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
- *A note of caution to any who desire to TR this route: the (climber's) LEFT bolt-hanger is attached by a very loose nut, i.e. it comes unscrewed slowly with use. [as of July 20th 2007]. This is also the case with the route to the right, Ho Hum
And, as was posted in the general forum, one of the new bolt-hangers from Idle Hands is still missing.
|By Pebby Johns|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 8, 2007
All the anchors for the routes at Boulderado have been fixed. Since this area is so heavily used, we checked all the anchors that we put in and fastened them all with Locktight. This repair took place 8/6/2007.
|By John W. Knoernschild|
Jun 23, 2008
This was the worst route I have ever been on. It's like climbing a ladder to one easy move and back onto ladder. A total waste of time.
|By Carl Dowdy|
From: Golden, CO
Mar 15, 2010
Crux protects well with a C4 #2.
|By Yair Horowitz|
Aug 12, 2011
Careful setting up a TR on most of the routes around here, as it gets pretty sketchy out on some of the ledges. There's a monster tree up top that I suggest anchoring yourself to, or your partner can belay you to the anchors.
|By Eric Klammer|
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
More of a scramble with 1 or 2 5.7 moves in the middle, but I still found it really fun! Would be a great route for the beginning trad leader, you can have 3 bomber pieces at your waist when pulling the crux. Singles from green Alien to #2 c4 will sew it up.