Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Global Village
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Casual Viewing T 
Deep Six S 
Disappearer S 
Dog Fight (a.k.a. Circa Man) S 
Eureka S 
Father and Son T 
Howard Roark T 
Jake Flake T 
Kentucky Pinstripe S 
Loosen Up S 
Nailbiter S 
Out For Justice S 
Vision T 

Jake Flake 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scott Hammon and James Newkam
Season: Any
Page Views: 659
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Apr 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Climb the flake just right of the start of Vision. Follow the crack system all the way to the top of the wall and rappel from a tree or over Kentucky Pinstripe. You can escape left onto Vision in a couple of places.


Just right of Vision. Start from the same ledge.


You need smaller stuff for the start. If you don't have Aliens or small TCUs then it might feel a little R-rated.

Comments on Jake Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By scott hammon
May 10, 2013

This climb has it's own anchors at the top of the wall
By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Dec 5, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Lower part takes passive protection as well.
By Dreez
Jun 16, 2014

Oh man, if I was a 5.7 leader trying this I would pee in my pants. I thought there were a couple thin/unprotected reachy 5.9 moves. 20 feet up. The rest is trivial.
By Michael Mahoney
From: Gillette, WY
Oct 8, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is no way a leader of this climb would ever rate it 5.7+. Gotta throw the Bulls**t flag on this one. The moves down low are harder than that on top rope. Mix in placing skimpy pro off of thin holds and I'd personally consider a clean lead of this climb somewhere in the low 10s. I'm clearly a wuss and in the minority with this opinion though.
By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Jan 5, 2015

I'm not sure why it's showing up as 7+. I distinctly remember thinking the 5.8 grade the FA gave it (yeah I'm talking about you Scott) was BS
By EthanC
May 18, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

No way is this 5.7, although it was slightly damp when I climbed it. A couple hard moves protected by 00 TCU and a wire, with the crux hold also the highest good placement (your choice). Compare this to father and son or vision around the corner. 5.7+ is a pretty severe sandbag, thought it felt much more like 5.9- or 5.9
By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Jul 6, 2015

I agree with a 5.8+/5.9 rating. I put it in as 5.7+ because other climbers insisted it was well protected with stoppers (its not) and that it wasn't that hard (it is).

Just because you can put stoppers in a crack doesn't mean they'll hold a fall. Sure, a 00 came will work, but again, that doesn't mean the fall potential so near the ground is minimized.

This is not a beginner lead and just because a beginner might pull it off doesn't change the reality of the climb.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!