||Mixed, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: ||M5 [details]|
|FA: ||Jack Hunt|
|Page Views: ||429|
|Submitted By: ||Jesse Morehouse on May 27, 2008|
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This is trad mixed at its best. You get rock stems with tools in ice runnels, dry tooling in flares, groveling, and it's all on your own gear- the best type of mixed! Maximum value for one pitch from bottom to top.
It is rarely in due to massive sun hit, so if it looks decent and not rotted out up top, get on it! The crux is surmounting the large chalk stone 1/2 way up, but depending on the amount of ice on the route it could vary. The climb is obvious up through the slot at the top, but then you need to go up and left to the belay via thin ice and thick snow over a slabby bit. Belay from a sturdy spruce and descend by walking to climber's left and rapping from bolts above the icy chimney.
This climb forms in the fissure to the right of the headwall forming the back of the ice chimeny route. It has a chockstone at 1/2 height which is the size of a large TV.
Full rack from small nuts through #3 Camalot plus screws.
Fun moves on rock and ice.
So, how do I get over this thing anyway? A moment...