|Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>>|
The first routes at Jailhouse were established ground-up by Dave Schultz, then of Yosemite. Dave had the vision to look past the chossy nature of the overhanging blocky crag, and see its great potential for steep sport climbing. Others, particularly Tom Herbert, Todd Graham, John Scott, Troy Corliss, Justen Sjong, and Brad Johnson, have also been primary developers.
The owners of the property were initially alarmed by the climbing, and closed the cliff in 1992. The Access Fund got the cliff re-opened, but with a number of conditions from the owners, including the longstanding 'no publicitiy' policy. In late 2010, the current owners graciously have signed an access easement allowing climbing on their property with certain conditions, as discussed in the access box above.
Jailhouse offers steep, blocky, volcanic sport climbing on basalt. Routes are in the shade in the morning, and in the sun in the afternoon. The low elevation crag is best in the winter (although many routes seep given California's winter rains) or early spring/late fall. It's much too hot in the summer unless you are a reptile. The quality climbing here starts at 12d and currently goes to 14+, although there are some limited easier routes. The two easiest routes at the cliff are frequently closed for nesting raptors. The easiest route is 11d, but there are only 3 routes easier than 12b. Many routes, particularly the many extensions, require a 70m rope. Most will find kneepads and well-developed stamina helpful
Jailhouse is in western Tuolumne County above the Stanislaus River between Lake Tulloch and New Melones Reservoirs. As of November 13, 2011, the climbers' traditional access up a steep hill immediately northeast of the east end of the O'Byrnes Ferry Bridge is CLOSED and not to be used. Instead, the only legal approach to the cliff is through a locked gate off O'Byrnes Ferry Road west of the prison, but before the road drops and winds south into the hairpin turn down to the lake. Do not try to enter the gate marked Shotgun Creek Estates; this is not the correct gate and is private property. The correct gate is west of this gate, and is best found by following the detailed directions on the Access Fund website mentioned below. TO CLIMB AT JAILHOUSE, YOU NEED THE GATE CODE. The code for the lock is at:
Before you go here, check with the Access Fund (accessfund.org/jailhouse) for current conditions or restrictions. Please read the Acess Fund information. If climbers violate the terms of the easement (for example, by leaving a gate open, or bringing dogs onto the property), that jeopardizes our ability to climb here. www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.7469161/k.E498/Jailh>>>
19 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Jailhouse Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Jailhouse Rock:
Warm-up 11c 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Warm-up 11d 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Line Up 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 50'
Fugitive 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Jailhouse Rock
Slammer 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a CA
: Central Sierra
: ... : Jailhouse Rock
This storied route was my nemesis and a labor of love, bringing me back to Jailhouse intermittently for 3 seasons after I moved to Denver in 2009. Originally a decent but not-sought-after 5.13b from the early Jailhouse days until a vital glue-reinforced fin broke off in the early 2000's, Slammer transformed into a notoriously elusive 5.13+ and repelled many a jailhouse hardman for years. Finally, I believe in 2007, during Alex Honnold's blitzkrieg at the House, he unlocked the new crux and calle...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for Jailhouse Rock
|By J. Albers|
Feb 2, 2011
So I guess your posting up Jailhouse means that information no longer needs to be kept "word of mouth", eh?
Thanks for all the hard work that you put into getting Jailhouse officially opened.
|By Tom Addison|
Feb 3, 2011
The new easement does not require that the cliff not be publicized, and we want to make sure that climbers know about the easement conditions (for example, dogs are no longer allowed). On the other hand, the owner wants to discourage non-climber traffic on her private property, so they do not want articles or stories about the climbing in non-climbing media, such as the local Sonora papers. We all get to climb out there because of the kindness and generosity of the owners, and we really want climbers to make sure that our current good relationship with them continues to be a good one. We're trying to strike a balance!
From: Riverside, Ca
Jun 19, 2011
can I ask how long the approach is?
|By J. Albers|
Jun 19, 2011
The approach is 20-30 min.
|By Tom Addison|
Oct 3, 2011
On November 12th, the Access Fund is sponsoring a work party at Jailhouse to close the current trail approach to the cliff (from the bridge) and install gates, fencing, and parking via the new approach (from a gate higher on O'Byrnes Ferry Road). Please come help us; we have a lot to do in one day. Also, from that point on, the old approach will be closed, and we will drive through the gate and park at a new parking area. The gate will be locked, so you will need the code to get in! The code will be available on the accessfund.org/jailhouse website.
Dogs are not allowed per the conditions of the easement.
|By Daniel Scott Brown|
Aug 26, 2012
Just Climbed here today,the gates were left open. Regardless we parked near the bridge and hiked to the rock- APPROACH 50min-1.5hr depending on if you can find the trail or not. This is not an extremely popular climbing sight due to the difficulty of the climbing but it is a must see if you are capable- never seen a ledge like it- one of the most vertical climbing spots in California.. Pictures cannot do it justice. And it is indeed hot as ---- in the summer time.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Jan 25, 2013
As Tom Mentioned above. DO NOT park at the bridge and use the old approach. This crosses private land that was sold to a new owner. There is a specific climber parking lot that is approached via gate on closer to the 120/108 on O'Byrnes Ferry Road. More details at the Access Fund site.
| || Jailhouse Approach Map |