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 ADVANCED
Jailhouse Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armed Robbery S 
Assault with Battery S 
Climb Spree S 
Cold Hand Luke T 
Crime and Punishment T 
Finger Prince S 
Grand Theft Otto T 
Hard Time T 
Jailbreak S 
Just Punishment T 
Petty Theft T 
Prison Overcrowding S 
Safecracker T 
Sentenced To Hang S 
Sentenced Traverse 
Solitary Refinement S 
Yard Boss S 

Jailbreak 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Joe Shiefman, ERuljancich, HUzzelle, JBak, May 2010 (drilled by Jbak on a wet, snowy day, Dec 2006)
Season: Usually shady and breezy after noon, so always bring warm clothes
Page Views: 3,101
Submitted By: jbak on Mar 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Joe on Jailbreak. Eric Ruljancich on belay. Photo ...

Description 

Ultra-sustained, harder than either SENTENCED or FINGER PRINCE. The higher you go the harder it gets (as it should be). Crimpy, espec. up high.


Location 

To the right of SENTENCED TO HANG, two routes start off a ledge about 6 feet off the deck. The left-hand of the two routes is JAILBREAK.


Protection 

bolts and chains



Photos of Jailbreak Slideshow Add Photo
Joe trying to break!
Joe trying to break!
Just a little crimpy...
Just a little crimpy...
The usual suspects! EFR on his way to an awesome, but decidedly tenuous redpoint.  What a bad ass!
The usual suspects! EFR on his way to an awesome, ...
Gier...
Gier...
Pumped?
Pumped?
Comments on Jailbreak Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 21, 2010
By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 31, 2008

Is this route still red-tagged?

By Jimbo
Jan 2, 2009

If Joe has finally sent this thing all the bolt hangers should be there. If not you might want to give it a serious once over before you start up, as a hanger or two might not be there.

By jbak
Jan 2, 2009

Yes...still red-tagged.

By Neill Prohaska
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 11, 2010

Not still red-tagged, is it?

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Feb 11, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Still red-tagged.

By JoeS
Feb 13, 2010

Thanks Eric for pointing out that the fellow who had bolted the route, namely me, is still interested in getting the FA.

This has gotten embarrassing. Although it is a good route, I sometime wish I hadn't bolted it. I keep getting close (1 fall numerous times and not all at the same place) and then the weather changes or I can't find a belayer, and then many months go by. On top of that Prison Camp is so popular and crowded. Not a great place to work a grade that is hard for you. Many times too nyumerous to count, well intending folks come up and ask "Hey, you get your project yet?". Even one or two folks whom I had never seen in my life have come up to me and asked if I sent my project.

I'm obsessing. It's not that large a problem in the scheme of things.

Bottom line, I haven't been on it for months again, but I'm climbing stronger than I was before and am pschyed to get it this spring, starting when the temps in town get above 80 degrees. I will even committ 3-4 days a week until it sends (if I can get someone to catch me)

I really appreciate everyone's patience and encouragement, and I will post it immediately once it gos, hopefully soon.

Joe

By jbak
Feb 14, 2010

Alternate name: Statute of Limitations

Seriously though Joe, you dialed in that route at Homme Depot pretty fast. I think you're ready for Jailbreak.

My list of undone projects is now about as long as my arm.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 18, 2010

Seems more like Life Without Parole!

By jbak
Mar 18, 2010

ouch

By jbak
May 7, 2010

May 7, 2010: Pima County Sheriff's office reports that Joseph "Lil Bull" Shiefman broke out of jail sometime in the early PM. He was aided in his escape by one Eric Ruljancich who brazenly used a rope to help Shiefman make his way up a wall, and thence to freedom.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
May 7, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Nice Joe! Great to hear that you triumphed.

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
May 8, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Freedom!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Way to go Joe! Perseverance does indeed pay off. There was certainly one psyched Lil Bull at the chains.

@john: Very witty there wordsmith

By Hampton Uzzelle
From: Tucson, Arizona
May 8, 2010

Congratulations- That was one well deserved redpoint! I know you're psyched Joe.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
May 8, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Nice job Joe!!!!!

By Jimbo
May 8, 2010

Awesome, Joe!!

You are a shining example of perserverance for all of us!!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

CONGRATS JOE!!!!!! Ditto Jimbo's comments - your perserverence is inspiring!!!

By lamina
May 13, 2010

JOE!!!!! a little belated CONGRATULATIONS!!!! Sooooo happy to learn of this!!! Wish I was there to cheer for your FA!

By jbak
May 14, 2010

Doing that route an such an ADVANCED age is very impressive.

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 14, 2010

Great job Joe! Way to stick with it. 3 stars from me. The thing that makes it great is that it is so sustained. Didn't find any big rests as on many of the routes on this cliff. No single super hard move but a lot of hard moves in a row and these make finishing it off difficult. One of the best routes at the crag.

By jbak
May 15, 2010

I like Sentenced and Armed Robbery alot, but IMO Jailbreak is the best route at the crag.

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Although a little crimpy in places this is one of the best lines at Jailhouse. Fun, balancy, and sequential movement with no rests the entire way.

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 21, 2010

Think you could come up with a better name. A Life Of Climb, 3 Year Stretch, Life Behind Knee Bars (not applicable but I like it), Hard Labor, Dept. of Rejections, Life Ascentence. Too much time on my hands. ME, that isn't a name.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 21, 2010
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

hahaha those name are funny!