Jailbait 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Gary Olsen, Bret and Stuart Ruckman 1984 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...
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Description Jailbait climbs the right side of Penitentiary Wall. Jam up really secure climbing below the roof. Pop over the roof at a thin crack, then continue up through flakes (good holds) up to a set of chain anchors. The upper face is difficult to protect.
Protection Standard Rack.
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 21, 2005
rating: 5.9
| Heady lead, especially above the roof. I seemed to bring all the wrong sizes of gear. Smaller gear up top, and tricky to say the least. |
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Aug 15, 2008
rating: 5.9+
| Great climb on beautiful rock, and there's not a lot of rock in BCC that I classify as beautiful. The gear is tricky. Perhaps some small tricams would also be nice for the horizontal cracks, mine were too big :( |
By Jeff Guest
From: Coalville, UT
Aug 22, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Watch out for the wasp nest under the overhang. If you stay to the left of the roof they will leave you alone. |
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