|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 230'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||C Butler, H Davis, JE Henry, MP Mamacos, GW Rose|
|Submitted By:||davecro on Feb 18, 2013|
|Comments on Jacobs Ladder||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Martin le Roux
From: Superior, CO
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maybe it's not done this way any more, but the original route was done in four pitches (not counting an approach pitch):
P1. Same as Davecro's P1, except I don't remember a semi-hanging belay.
P2. Continue up a juggy crack through the overhang, then traverse left to a stance on a bushy ledge (about 10m, S African grade 15).
P3. Traverse back right past the top of P2, then continue up and right to join Daverco's P2. Alternatively, you could set up a hanging belay at the top of the juggy crack on P2 to avoid traversing left and back right again.
P4. Same as Davecro's P3.
Here's another photo: mountainproject.com/v/10723460...
The first ascent was by Mike Mamacos (not "Mamaccs").
For those interested in ancient history I've posted a scan of the original 1952 trip report. They rehearsed the crux on top rope. Tut, tut.
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 28, 2013
|Thanks for the info Martin. I cleaned up my description and included some of your edits.|