|a. The Uberfall
This is another popular top rope, but a very dangerous lead. An excellent climb on TR with fun balancy moves on a nice white face.
Scramble to the top via the Uberfall Descent. Take a left at the top to reach the large flat ledge and boulder above the Squiggles face, or climb Squiggles (5.4).
Climb a smooth ramp up and left to a small overhang (crux), then up the face to the top.
At a ramp just above an obvious spring along the Carriage Road at the right end of the Squiggles face.
May border on X due to ground fall potential at crux (although crux is fairly low to ground).
Jun 17, 2012
I did it as a top-rope (never seen anyone lead it). Just what I was looking for: lots of moves on small or slopy holds.
I didn't notice an "overhang" until I read the description again afterward -- so I would emphasize that it's a tiny overhang.
I found I could get to the "overhang" either by getting my feet up on the slopy ramp early, then move left -- or have my hands around the ramp and my feet below while moving significantly left, and step up onto the ramp only later. Not sure which way is harder, but getting my feet up early was an unusual memorable move for me - (and for me also instructive) - (but I'd be rather impressed to see someone less than 5ft6in with normal arm-reach do it that way).
Past the overhang, it seems a reasonable route to continue farther left along the ramp and then up to the top. But surely a tougher challenge to go straight up on smaller holds.