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Jackson's Wall 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dallas Jackson and Chuck Merley, 1953
Page Views: 4,024
Submitted By: Stich on May 17, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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A ledge about 2 meters above the mouth of the chim...

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Description 

Despite the poor review this climb gets in the Falcon guide, it is actually a surprisingly fun romp.

Pitch 1 begins as a wide chimney that can be done in a variety of ways. Gear placements are generally good in this section. Climb up and right at the start and negotiate some chockstone boulders in the ramp. Keep climbing once the terrain gets grassy. You will pass the bolts on the left that lead to Cussin' Crack. Eventually a wall will force you to traverse right and out. You'll find a large ledge with a two bolt anchor. This should be practically a full rope length on a 60m. Communication with your belayer will be next to impossible, so have some sort of signaling system worked out ahead of time.

P2 is where the fun starts. Above you will see a crack and a possible way left. Step up and climb left, stemming over the delightfully airy drop off. Then, move up the face and find a slopey ledge. Climb up the ledge and move left, placing only a small cam perhaps as you go. You'll end up on a large ledge that leads to the walk off. Belay in any number of places that allows you to be above the traverse.

The descent is located on the side facing the road. Generally, it trends to the left of the trees you see on the way down. At the short crux downclimbing part, you can elect to rappel from a chain wrapped around a tree.


Protection 

Rack up to a #4 Camalot, one set of nuts.



Photos of Jackson's Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Working up the chimney that begins P1.
Working up the chimney that begins P1.
The crux is located directly above the bolted belay.  There is a convenient piton "protecting" the breathtaking traverse (and a 2nd slightly higher up above the crux).
BETA PHOTO: The crux is located directly above the bolted bela...
Looking southwest from the bolted belay.
Looking southwest from the bolted belay.
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 22, 2013
By Cody Munger
From: Carson City, NV
Oct 5, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

A few notes:

I didn't like the looks of the chimney start for my beginner on the first pitch, so I opted for the slab to the right. I was able to place a stopper (which popped out) about 8 feet off the ground, and then I ran it out the rest of the way (about 25 feet from the ground). Good 5.6 s warm up for the 4th class hiking above.

Make sure you don't stop in the gully until you hit the double bolt chain anchor at the base of the crux pitch. Less pitches that way.

Be careful of rope drag on the crux pitch. I found I was zig zagging a lot looking for the easiest line. The 5.8 direct finish would have probably been less draggy (and more fun). But then I'd be hauling my 2nd up manually.

Fun route overall. Though I couldn't really see it, since I was doing an after work sunset race.

By Nate Stutzke
Apr 1, 2007

Two FEISTY ravens have built a large nest in the ramp just before you exit right at the top of the first pitch. Though it would have added some spice to the route, we opted not to challenge them.

By Girasol
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 4, 2007

Only about 10 feet of rope remain (using a 60m) when finished belaying the leader up this fun climb. For my first real chimney, the start of Jackson's Wall was a challenge but fun to try to figure out (though not much rock suitable for pro placement) how to climb (you can also climb the face, but pro is very limited)! For the chimney, first face left, then half way up you have to turn around and face right, then move out on the face for a bit until you catch the crack up to the short traverse right to the rather obvious belay ledge. On P2 there are a couple of exposed moves you have to do, but relatively easy climbing. The second move after the ledge is a bit of a push up onto a ledge about 6" wide at most that is made by a rather sharp flake. You can try to do a foot jam in the flake while you pull yourself up, but I found this to be a bit awkward when trying to get my foot out at a sharp angle while pushing up onto the ledge. If you go left, you will find some footholds that will help you. The next move is a high step right up onto a narrow stone ridge-like flake that gives a lovely view between it and the main rock down to the road and water below. From there up it gets easier and less exposed. Nice variety of moves required. Relatively easy walk off the opposite side down to the left. Enjoy!
Girasol

By KeithRD
Sep 20, 2007

Weird route. The first pitch (or two as some people do it) is not very aesthetic or fun, at all. Once you reach the bolted belay, the climbing is steep and fun for the grade, but be very mindful of rope drag, unless of course you are fond of climbing one handed with a mouthful of slack just to manage the drag....

If you can, run it out a bit, it's much more enjoyable that way.

By Scoops
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 21, 2010

We broke this climb into four short pitches. This significantly reduces rope drag and makes communication a little easier. With a 50m rope stopping above the chimney at the obvious ledge is probably a better option then trying to stretch it all the way to the bolts anyway.

With the exposure above the bolted belay and the high potential for rope drag, I wouldn't recommend this route for beginning leaders. Lots of fun though!

By Rodger Raubach
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

One of the easier climbs on Castle Rock; honest at 5.6. Biggest part is getting back down via North Face descent. Did this the 1st time in December 1961 while home from Army on leave. Icy nightmare getting down!

By Rick Mix
Aug 29, 2012

Even though the book says to climb this in two pitches, I usually go in four. I do the slab start R of the chimney, then up to the gully. P2 goes up to the bolted belay. P3 is kinda a guide trick. I do the traverse around the roof, go up the corner to its top and belay right there. It's short but allows great communication between everyone and makes the last pitch a bit more pleasant for the leader.
Really a great route.

By Rodger Raubach
May 16, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

It definitely makes more sense to break this up into 4 short leads to avoid awful rope drag.

By wfscot
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 21, 2013

We climbed this on 6/20/13, and there was a nasty loose rock on the exposed traverse just above the bolted belay. It's marked with a couple white Xs, but they look to be fading. It's something you will want to grab if you're not paying attention, and there's a good chance it would hit your belayer or folks on the ground below. Be careful!

Other that that, we found this climb better than expected. The chimney start isn't particularly fun, but the rest of the route is quite nice.

By Jim6565
Jul 22, 2013

I thought the chimney was rather straightforward. I have leather patches on my pants and used knee locks until I could stand on the rather comforting inside ledge. There were two places I could get small wires for decent protection.