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Castle Rock
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Jackson's Wall Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Hurley and Charles Roskosz, 1961. FFA: Layton Kor
Page Views: 2,480
Submitted By: Hayden Yurkanis on Jun 25, 2002

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Climber starting the crux section of the first pit...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is about 40' to the right of the difficult Gill Crack. You can belay in the shade of a nice, large boulder.

P1: Scramble up to the short dihedral, climb up it a few feet, and traverse left (crux). Continue traversing a long way (~40') to a crack that leads up to a ledge with a bolt and a pin.

P2: Climb up and to the left of a bush, grab a jug, and mantle onto a small ledge. Continue up this easy corner until you get to a fixed ring pin....back it up, lift up your skirt, and grab your nuts---traverse left on scary insecure "5.9" climbing for several feet (anyone get pro in on this???) I think that most people will find this to be the true crux of the climb, mentally and technically. Anyway, join up with a crack and climb it to the next ledge.

P3: Complete with the last pitch of Jackson's Wall. (5.6)


Protection 

Standard rack to a #3 Camalot



Photos of Jackson's Wall Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff topping off Jackson's Wall Direct. Not an easy overhang, even while cleaning, huh Jeff?
Jeff topping off Jackson's Wall Direct. Not an eas...
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2002

Already listed under "South Face".