Mountain Project: Climbing Jackson Falls

Jackson falls has the largest number of climbing routes in Illinois. Located in a forest canyon the 30-70 foot walls offer slopers, various sized pockets, roofs, and slabs. Jackson Falls is in the Shawnee National Forest in southern Illinois. It can get hot and humid in the summer but there's plenty of shade.

Getting There

From I24 turn North on highway 45 turn right (East) on Ozark road for about 4.5 miles. Turn left on Trigg Tower Road to the first farmhouse and turn right. The parking is about 2 miles down the dirt road just before crossing the creek.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Jackson Falls:

Chicken Shack 5.6 Sport, TR, 1 pitch Mr. Jimmy

Fine Nine 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Lovely Tower

Master Marley 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Spleef Peak

Venom 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch Mr. Jimmy

Cheerio Bowl 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Hidden Peaks

Group Therapy 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Gallery

Into the Sun 5.10+ Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Railroad Area

Naked Blade 5.11a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Hidden Peaks

Lovely Arete 5.11a Sport, 35 feet Lovely Tower

Wild at Heart 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch Railroad Area

Blue Velvet 5.11+ Sport, 1 pitch Railroad Area

Hidden Treasures 5.12a Sport, 40 feet Lovely Tower

Everybody Needs Friends 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Beaver Wall

Who Need's Friends 5.12a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Beaver Wall

Detox Mountain 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Hidden Peaks

The Reckoning 5.12a Sport Battle Axe Tower

Frizzle Fry 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Beaver Wall

Red Corvette 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Beaver Wall

Legend of the Falls 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Beaver Wall

Shorty the Pimp 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Beaver Wall

Comments on Jackson Falls

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 5, 2013

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 28, 2007

Dr. Topo guidebook

By Christian M. Lenn
From: Evansville,IN
Jun 4, 2008

Vertical Heartland,Eric Ulner The comprehensive guidebook for southern illinois

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Feb 22, 2009

The Dr. Topo guide says turn right on Glenn Falls Road, which apparently has been renamed Street Road. The rest is accurate.

By Dave Pool
Mar 10, 2009

I don't know how to add the lat/long stuff to this post but these are the coordinates according to Google Earth: 37�29'40"N 88�39'55"W

By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
Apr 29, 2009

The most beautiful climbing area I have ever been to. Large amounts of rock and amazing routes!

By Ben May
From: del mar, ca
Nov 20, 2010

Is anyone planning on climbing here durring Christmass?

I have trad gear if necessary. I'll be in town visiting and will be looking for a partner if the weather isn't formidable.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 11, 2010

A lot of the routes posted for Jackson Falls contain sparse info.

If you post something better or more descriptive, or have any FA info, etc, post a comment under the route and I'll fix it. Thanks.

By jeremy ward
From: las vegas, nevada
Jan 12, 2011

Beautiful area! No matter how many destinations I go to Jackson will always be a favorite of mine. Amazing sandstone sport climbing, free camping and you can have the place pretty much to yourself during the week!

By Chicagio
Jun 6, 2011

Sorry to double post but this didn't seem appropriate for a condition report.
After an intense day of climbing this campground was about 25 minutes away and had hot showers for $3 a person. They also sell ice and firewood.
maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=37.4139>>>

By Juggler
Oct 25, 2011

Looking to see if anyone want to fly(in a plane) down with me for the wknd. to Jackson Falls leaving Friday(10/28) AM and returning Sun. Aft?

LMK and I will send you the cost sharing details. Flying makes a 6 hr drive a 2 hour flight. LMK right away- Thanks

By Ted Peterson
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2012

MP is great for new routes and getting the lay of the land, but if you are going to be spending some time at the Falls, might as well buy the guidebook and support the local climbing community. Vertical Heartland, 3rd edition. Order online, from Eric, or pick it up at Shawnee Trails in Carbondale. FYI, there are many new sport routes not in the guidebook, so perhaps MP is great as an addendum.

By wyattj8
Jan 5, 2013

Hey guys, I am new to the area and am looking for some partners to climb with on the weekends mostly. I am starting a new job at Land Between the Lake in KY on Jan 7th. I have been climbing for about 8 years now and am a capable climber and belayer, no sketchy shit here! So if you wouldn't mind meeting someone new to climb with either email me at wyattj8@yahoo.com or call me at 615-438-8927.

Jon

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	ADVANCED

Jackson Falls

Description

Getting There

The Classics