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Jackson Creek

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Flathead Dome 
Jackson Creek Dome 
Mega Dome 
Split Dome aka Split Rock 
Taj Mahal, The 

Jackson Creek  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 24, 2003
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Description 

Jackson Creek warrants listing as a separate area at this point because it is completely distinct from the Devil's Head area per se, and is so far North that it doesn't really fit in with the South Platte area either. Furthermore, unlike most of the Splatte, all of the climbing is accessed from the Jackson Creek road, and this area now comprises close to twenty crags and well over 100 routes. The creek is relatively deep in the drainage and climbing can be cut short late in the season. Much of the climbing is trad and on typical Splatte granite that is uniformly excellent quality. While bolts do sporadically dot the faces, it is almost mandatory to bring the trad rack. Since the crags run North to South along the creek, they all have climbable West and East faces. Many of the developed crags host multi-pitch routes that run up to bona-fide summits. Expect a lot of crack work or a lot of friction, but on average climbing along JC is several number grades easier than the average on Devil's Head. Some classic domes at JC are the Jackson Creek Dome with half a dozen major walls, Split Rock, The Taj Mahal (host to some of the best climbing in JC), and numerous more minor crags. Like many South Platte adventures, it is important to sus out your descent from the crags ahead of time. Rap stations exist on some of the newer bolted slabs, but this is by no means the rule. If you come with your friction-head tuned in, expect long runouts between bolts. If you come gunning for cracks, bring a range of friends and camalots spanning the full size range. Camping at the JC campground is terrific in the Fall despite the dirt bikers who have been known to swarm to the South. Overall, JC offers an unusual blend of South Platte style climbing in a truly mountain setting on largely perfect stone.

Getting There 

Perhaps the best approach to Jackson Creek is via the Rampart Range road, rather than approaching from the East. The East approach on the Jackson Creek road washed out years ago and is still tough to manage. Using the directions for Devil's Head, take State highway 67 West out of Sedalia. Take the Rampart Range road (300) South at the ranger's kiosk (they will want some money, but this is not obligatory). Continue South after passing the turn for Devil's Head, and in a few miles you will come to a left turn that drops sharply down hill - this is the South end of the Jackson Creek road, and is close to 14 miles from highway 67. Climbing begins a mile or so after the turn, adjacent to the campground, and continues East and North along the creek.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

34 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',10],['5.9',6],['5.10',10],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Jackson Creek:
Astral Projection   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Sport, 1 pitch   Jackson Creek Dome
Cold Frize   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Jackson Creek Dome
Meat Pipe   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   The Taj Mahal
Consenting Adults   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   Jackson Creek Dome
Too Young to Fly   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   The Taj Mahal
Taj Mixed Climb   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   The Taj Mahal
Browse More Classics in Jackson Creek

Featured Route For Jackson Creek
The first pitch.

Meat Pipe 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13  CO : South Platte : ... : The Taj Mahal
The amazing striking OW/Chimey line splitting the southeast face. It starts as stacks, goes to squeeze chimney and gets into full stems with a fist crack. I had only a #6 Friend and smaller and was able to only get 4 pieces of pro in 180 feet. The cruxes were protected but a fall in most places would have meant decking. Gold Big Bros may help.To descend, walk right (exposed) until you are below the sickest OW fist crack you've ever seen (Crumbling Reality) and look right. There is an ancho...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Jackson Creek Add Comment
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By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
Sep 30, 2003
The old Jackson Creek road is not only washed out, but it's path crosses private property owned by some not-too-friendly locals. Definately best to drive down from Rampart.
By Tim Reynolds
Oct 1, 2003
The road where you take the left turn is 502.
By ET
Oct 5, 2003
Is anyone sure on the drive? I could only find road 502, which at least got me close. Does this mithical road 507 exist?
By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
Oct 6, 2003
It's 502 not 507. Here's the link to the USFS web site: fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/spl/images/...
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 6, 2003
The Jackson Creek road is FR 502. Heading South on Rampart Range (FR 300), after the turn to Devil's Head campground, FR 502 is the first left turn you come to, 3 or 4 miles further South. FR 507 is North of the turn for Devil's Head camping. For what it is worth, I'd pick up a copy of the Colorado Atlas (DeLorme). Might save a lot of thrashing around.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 16, 2005
Lots of missing bolts and anchors! Scope your route carefully.