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b. Jackie and friends
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Unsorted Routes:

Jackie 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Jack Taylor, Lester Germer, 1952
Page Views: 13,719
Submitted By: Guy H. on Apr 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (337)
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Contemplating the roof ended up pulling it!

Description 

Jackie is a popular moderate climb to the left of Classic which includes a fun roof on P1. It's a good route for early leaders, as protection is plentiful and the line is fairly straight.

This climb is located directly behind the Chockstone Boulders. Follow a trail before or after the huge boulders a couple minutes down the road from Uberfall.

P1: Follow a crack system up and left to a short right-facing dihedral with a small overhang, directly behind a tree. Continue up the face to a larger overhang (piton) with big holds. Protect your follower after you've pulled the roof, then move 15' right to belay at bolt anchor shared with Classic. 5.5, 80'.

If you're setting this up for newer followers, make sure to protect the roof well for them; otherwise they'll have to pass the roof to the right, which is much harder than 5.5, and usually involves a lot of noise.

P2: Start above where you pulled the roof; angle left, passing the overhang to the face above. 5.3, 80'.

Descent: From the top, rappel from the bolted anchor to climber's right (2015). It's also possible to walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Jackie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shirley on the second pitch of Jackie
Shirley on the second pitch of Jackie
Rock Climbing Photo: Jacki Subberra - placing gear before pulling the f...
Jacki Subberra - placing gear before pulling the f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jackie is the route barely visible behind the clus...
Jackie is the route barely visible behind the clus...
Rock Climbing Photo: The second pitch
The second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: TR on Jackie
BETA PHOTO: TR on Jackie
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling over the 2nd roof at the top of P1 on Jack...
Pulling over the 2nd roof at the top of P1 on Jack...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the first pitch of Jackie.
Looking down the first pitch of Jackie.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the first belay. Seems like it's been s...
Just above the first belay. Seems like it's been s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Royce Van Evera leading P1.
Royce Van Evera leading P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping from the top of Jackie.
Rapping from the top of Jackie.
Rock Climbing Photo: Questionable pin on the second pitch.
Questionable pin on the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the second pitch.
Climbing the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Damon Farnum under the first roof on P1.
Damon Farnum under the first roof on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dede pulling the roof on P1...
Dede pulling the roof on P1...

Comments on Jackie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Jul 28, 2006

Love to finish this climb with various second pitches. You can go right and do P2 of Classic, or straight up through the bulge is fun too, or left a bit for the traditional finish. All are easy and fun.

Second pitches in the Gunks are where the fun and adventure come into play. Try wandering a little bit. It may be dirty but you can always downclimb if you don't like what you see.
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 2, 2007

P2 of Classic is a -great- finish to Jackie, and lets you avoid the clusterf***/crowds by walking off instead of rappelling.
By losbill
Oct 6, 2007

What Adam said about second pitches.
Also agree going straight up through the bulge on P2 of Jackie definitely adds a bit of interest to the pitch.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 17, 2010

This has got to be one of the best 5's in the world. It's happy, fun, a little bit of "spice" with the two roofs. A great climb for an aspiring 5.5 leader. With great pro, a 5.5 leader should have no problem going for the moves.
By Ian Dibbs
Apr 19, 2012

Warning to 5.5 climbers, save some strength for the final roof at the end of pitch 1(as seen in pictures)It may challenge 5.5 climbers abilities.
By AndyGriffin
May 24, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Took JSH's advice and did P2 of Classic, I really enjoyed doing it that way and recommend it to others.
By BIG Climber
From: Irvine, CA
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

If you choose to avoid the final roof on P1 by moving left and then travesing back above the roof right to the anchors, be cautious of a very loose 12"x 12" block that could be accidentally kicked free.
By kenr
Nov 12, 2012

I agree with Ian Dibbs above and thought the overhang at the top of Pitch 1 takes some real arm strength if you don't have the height/reach. You can be as good as you want with rock sense or dancing your feet, which are key to the lower and middle crux sections of Pitch 1, but if you don't have the arm strength (or reach), you're not getting through that top crux.

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