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|Submitted By:||Sean Denny on Jan 18, 2012|
|re: Bishop Virgin||Mike Brady||19 mins ago|
|re: Obscure, less crowded routes in Yosemite (if there is such a thing)||Guy Keesee||20 mins ago|
|Lost Vuarnet Sunglasses, trail to Superslide/Serenity Crack||Patrick Cunnane||1 hour ago|
|Found Shoes at Ring Mountain||Dan Zweig||18 hours ago|
|re: Yosemite-ElCap-Dawn Wall - Need a partner||Colin Kenneth||19 hours ago|
|re: Looking for a ride from Bishop to Reno||Jeff Gicklhorn||1 day ago|
|re: Climbing Redwood Coast Area 1/19-1/20||Jill S||1 day ago|
|re: CO Climber seeks partner for Sunday around SF Jan 25||SRB25||2 days ago|
|Comments on Jacked and Tan||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Tim King
Feb 16, 2013
Tons of new stuff/variations on this boulder went up today.
Tom did the line on the right (start Arboretum, go right to the sharp patina crimps and then up), thought it was around V8-9. We were calling it Thomas Aquinas, not sure if it had another name?
He also did some rad new variations. Starting on the far left of the boulder (Allens Route crimps), then traversing right and finishing Arboretum and Detour. The opening sequence is definitely harder than the equivalent start from the right, so it bumps all these climbs up a notch or two.
And then the king line on the boulder: Starting on the far left side, traverse all the way across into the sharp patina crimps and finish as for Thomas Aquinas. We were calling it Toms Traverse, and thinking it's probably about V9-10. Power, endurance, and more power is the name of the game.
I'll add all the routes/details in once I go back and get pics.
By Sean Denny
Feb 17, 2013
|Rad! Psyched that this stuff went down. The line with sharp crimp did not have a name, so call it what you want (after all, FA gets priority). Looking forward to the pictures!|
By r. tyler gross
May 19, 2013
|Went up there yesterday. A friend and I worked this sit start from the far left on two crimps. Fired to right hand sloper, matched then went into undercling and finished on "nicos problem" pretty cool and hard. No send, but close.|
By Tim King
May 20, 2013
Yeah that is a sweet variation. Prob around V6, I felt the crux was moving your feet up to setup for the dyno. The positioning and swing from the dyno is awesome, good fun, with the Arboretum mantle to finish.
I sometimes compare this boulder with the Dancing Outlaw boulder. With a few good warmups, tons of variations and exit options, plus that sweet kickboard/mini roof project on the front, this is a boulder that just keeps on giving.