Start as for Old Gregg, but traverse left along the seam instead of heading up. After arriving at a nice letterbox style hold, make a big move up and behind your head to the crimps on the upper lip. Make a few moves up and left. Mantel the first tier of the roof and try desperately to find the jug on the second tier to top it out. There is no particular crux; almost every move is physically difficult, requiring strong core tension and precise movements. The holds are all pretty good th...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Tons of new stuff/variations on this boulder went up today.
Tom did the line on the right (start Arboretum, go right to the sharp patina crimps and then up), thought it was around V8-9. We were calling it Thomas Aquinas, not sure if it had another name?
He also did some rad new variations. Starting on the far left of the boulder (Allens Route crimps), then traversing right and finishing Arboretum and Detour. The opening sequence is definitely harder than the equivalent start from the right, so it bumps all these climbs up a notch or two.
And then the king line on the boulder: Starting on the far left side, traverse all the way across into the sharp patina crimps and finish as for Thomas Aquinas. We were calling it Toms Traverse, and thinking it's probably about V9-10. Power, endurance, and more power is the name of the game.
I'll add all the routes/details in once I go back and get pics.
Went up there yesterday. A friend and I worked this sit start from the far left on two crimps. Fired to right hand sloper, matched then went into undercling and finished on "nicos problem" pretty cool and hard. No send, but close.
Yeah that is a sweet variation. Prob around V6, I felt the crux was moving your feet up to setup for the dyno. The positioning and swing from the dyno is awesome, good fun, with the Arboretum mantle to finish.
I sometimes compare this boulder with the Dancing Outlaw boulder. With a few good warmups, tons of variations and exit options, plus that sweet kickboard/mini roof project on the front, this is a boulder that just keeps on giving.