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Jackalopes and Preachers 

5.7 R

   
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Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
FA: Jack Biddix & Kevin Jenkins
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: kevin jenkins on Jul 23, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Jackalopes and Preachers.

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Description 

This route goes up the obvious flake on the left face of the chimney to the right of 'Fat Fingered and Overhung'. I've seen chalk all [about] the base of this route but not higher up. I'm certain I'm not the first ascentionist, but I am claiming it, unless otherwise corrected.... It is a nice little route, a little exposed, but most climbers will breeze it.


Protection 

This route can be easily top roped using some longer webbing and the trees on top... some small nuts on top for back up....

If you want to lead this trad, I'd suggest some larger (7-9 hexes) pieces for the crack, [but] either way, there is risk of a pendulum into the chimney face.


Location 

This is just to the right of the Ada Jam route.



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By kevin jenkins
Jul 23, 2005

I should specify that this is [just] to the right of the [Ada Jam] route.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 12, 2005

I don't think there is a single route at Castlewood under 5.10 that hasn't been climbed.

By Tom Hanson
Aug 15, 2005

Hello Anonymous Coward,

It is true that, at one time or another, most lines of any interest have likely been climbed, on lead, toprope, or solo.When compiling the yellow Castlewood guidebook, more than 400 lines were omitted for brevity, and that was ten years ago.

Hello Kevin,

Any line that was of interest enough to climb and mention on this site must have some requisits of quality. Perhaps Jackalopes and Preachers should be added to the guide.

By kevin jenkins
Sep 1, 2005

i'm certain that this was done, yet another Hanson or Horan or Sills classic, no doubt free soloed, without shoes, and blindfolded ten years before my birth... however, i didn't see anything on it in the guide, nor in here, so i added it... please forgive me any ill will, or toes i may have stepped upon in doing so. much love for this crag and its people.... kevin

By Rob B
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.7 PG13

Lots of great small toe holds as you get higher, they don't look like much but they are definitely solid. I would warn that some moss has grown in the offwidth about halfway up, so watch out.