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Neanderthal Wall
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Ada Jam 
Are You Experienced? 
Bad Ass Pi Man 
Candyland 
Cheater Five 
Chicken Wing Crack 
Cro-Mag Crack 
Fat Fingered And Overhung 
Fingers Have It, The 
Hackfleisch 
Hanson's Folly 
Jackalopes and Preachers 
Mosh, The 
Oh Face 
Outer Mongolia 
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Primal Jam 
Rotunda, The 
Squeeze, The 
Stratego 
Up the Red 
Wall of Webs 
Way Out, The 

Jackalopes and Preachers 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jack Biddix & Kevin Jenkins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 973
Submitted By: kevin jenkins on Jul 23, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Jackalopes and Preachers.
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Description 

This route goes up the obvious flake on the left face of the chimney to the right of 'Fat Fingered and Overhung'. I've seen chalk all [about] the base of this route but not higher up. I'm certain I'm not the first ascentionist, but I am claiming it, unless otherwise corrected.... It is a nice little route, a little exposed, but most climbers will breeze it.


Protection 

This route can be easily top roped using some longer webbing and the trees on top... some small nuts on top for back up....

If you want to lead this trad, I'd suggest some larger (7-9 hexes) pieces for the crack, [but] either way, there is risk of a pendulum into the chimney face.


Location 

This is just to the [left] of the Ada Jam route.



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By kevin jenkins
Jul 23, 2005

I should specify that this is [just] to the right of the [Ada Jam] route.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 12, 2005

I don't think there is a single route at Castlewood under 5.10 that hasn't been climbed.

By Tom Hanson
Aug 15, 2005

Hello Anonymous Coward,

It is true that, at one time or another, most lines of any interest have likely been climbed, on lead, toprope, or solo.When compiling the yellow Castlewood guidebook, more than 400 lines were omitted for brevity, and that was ten years ago.

Hello Kevin,

Any line that was of interest enough to climb and mention on this site must have some requisits of quality. Perhaps Jackalopes and Preachers should be added to the guide.

By kevin jenkins
Sep 1, 2005

i'm certain that this was done, yet another Hanson or Horan or Sills classic, no doubt free soloed, without shoes, and blindfolded ten years before my birth... however, i didn't see anything on it in the guide, nor in here, so i added it... please forgive me any ill will, or toes i may have stepped upon in doing so. much love for this crag and its people.... kevin

By Rob B
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

Lots of great small toe holds as you get higher, they don't look like much but they are definitely solid. I would warn that some moss has grown in the offwidth about halfway up, so watch out.

By teece303
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jul 4, 2013

Either your photo is wrong (not showing the route) or this has to be just to the LEFT of Ada Jam. Or I'm confused about where "Ada Jam" and "Are You Experienced" are located, because it sure looks like both of them are in the alcove to the right in this photo.

By kevin jenkins
Feb 19, 2014

You are correct, it is to the left of Ada Jam as you are facing the cliff... not sure why I said right.... Sorry for the confusion!