|Wild Horses Wall
This relatively neglected moderate is a fine choice for those seeking something a bit more intellectual and less cruxy. The holds on this line are not as large as similarly grade routes further East, but for those with good footwork & balance, this route will prove just as enjoyable. One of the few low-end tens with no distinct crux, this makes for a good warmup if you don't mind squeezing into your tight slippers first thing in the morning.
Begin a few feet up the gully, below a series of shallow left-facing dihedrals. Work these features up & right to the first bolt and an awesome sinker jug. Head back left, and follow generally large but slopey pockets up the clean slab.
The right-most bolted route on the Wild Horses Wall, beginning right of a narrow chimney, and immediately left of a large gulley that separates the Wild Horses Wall from the Hot Tamale Wall.
Bolts, 2 Bolt Anchor.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 9, 2012
While its true that there isn't any crux per se, the moves to the anchor feel the most insecure, provided you follow the good holds out left. It might be harder, but with a better fall, to go straight up from the last bolt.
Stays in the shade longer than most of the other routes around here.