Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Siberia
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bull with Gas 
Bazooka, The 
Ben Scabbyface 
Broken Dreams 
Child Proof 
Cross-Roads Finish 
Dos Chi Chis 
Gandy 
George's Route (aka Binder) 
Glen's Crack 
Hollywood Rattlesnake 
Irish Toothache 
Jack 
Kublai Corner 
Leon Redbone 
Love Gas 
Old Hornington 
Original Route (aka Jake Off) 
Randy 
Showers With Dad 
Toby 
Weo 
Yasmine Bleeth 
Unsorted Routes:

Jack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Tucker Tech
Page Views: 274
Submitted By: Chris D on Feb 6, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Jo, on Jack, at the crux.

Description 

Start up the left-facing corner, moving to the right at the top of the corner after a fun lie-back move near the small black water-streak. Above the corner and to the right follow a crack/seam to the white headwall with brown patina plates and a ledge with a two-bolt rap station.


Location 

This starts in the obvious left-facing corner above and to the left of the big roof at the bottom of the west face of Siberia


Protection 

Fixed pin mentioned in guidebook is gone. Crux move is a .7 or .8 lieback about 25 feet up. There is no gear for the first 35 feet. Blowing the crux would send you down a chasm below the start of the route, maybe a 40-foot fall with a bad landing.

This route and Glen's Crack can be toproped by traversing right and around a grainy corner from the anchor for Irish Toothache (which climbs right up the arete on the horizon at the left of the photo) to the two-bolt anchor on the ledge.

Toproping with a 60 meter rope will require some easy downclimbing unless you extend the anchor about five feet.



Photos of Jack Slideshow Add Photo
Jack is the right line on this topo.
BETA PHOTO: Jack is the right line on this topo.
Comments on Jack Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -