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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b X

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Tucker Tech
Page Views: 274
Submitted By: Chris D on Feb 6, 2012
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Jo, on Jack, at the crux.


Start up the left-facing corner, moving to the right at the top of the corner after a fun lie-back move near the small black water-streak. Above the corner and to the right follow a crack/seam to the white headwall with brown patina plates and a ledge with a two-bolt rap station.


This starts in the obvious left-facing corner above and to the left of the big roof at the bottom of the west face of Siberia


Fixed pin mentioned in guidebook is gone. Crux move is a .7 or .8 lieback about 25 feet up. There is no gear for the first 35 feet. Blowing the crux would send you down a chasm below the start of the route, maybe a 40-foot fall with a bad landing.

This route and Glen's Crack can be toproped by traversing right and around a grainy corner from the anchor for Irish Toothache (which climbs right up the arete on the horizon at the left of the photo) to the two-bolt anchor on the ledge.

Toproping with a 60 meter rope will require some easy downclimbing unless you extend the anchor about five feet.

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