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Jack Twister 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type: Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Carl "G-Man" Gostola
Season: Whenever the Weather is Good.
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Brent Larsen on Jun 23, 2012
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Though the weather outside is frightful..............

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One of the coolest of the New Skool routes in the five-eleven-"C"ish range. Jack Twister is simply nothing more than Monsoon on steroids. Big, fun movement, small fun movement, and great rests with lots of potential foot placement, excellent bolt placement and a not-so-rocket science type of mentality make this climb a very fun time!

The route even has a caught up in a whirlwind kind of flow to it as you find the obvious weakness in the rock and just keep following it. Is that a tiny hold with awkward movement? Screw it! Keep scanning the stormy horizon until a jug appears, get those feet up and reach for it. This route literally has no shitty holds! Just think out the most logical progression and go with it, however, just like Monsoon, the crux is managing the one hundred mile an hour pump for all one million feet of the climb.

Life is sweet for those that wait for the right sequence to appear, find those rests, believe in yourself and send this sweet route!


Second to last route on the left handed most anclove of the wall. Jack Twister is not in the main amphitheater.

And do yourself a HUGE favor if you send this tall, bad boy. Pack up your stuff and go straight to The Danks and get a climb called Stakes Are High And So Am I. If you are a strong "11"-ish climber and Jack Twister fits your style of climbing then you will want to get on Stakes since is just as super-sweet in the fun factor!


A dozen draws. Open Shunt Anchors.

Photos of Jack Twister Slideshow Add Photo
Joel M. gets caught up in Jack Twister, 5.11c. <br /> <br />The Thunderhead. Spearfish Canyon. SD.
Joel M. gets caught up in Jack Twister, 5.11c.

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