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The Druid
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Unsorted Routes:

Jack the Slipper 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Doug Lantz, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Diane Vetter
Page Views: 1,276
Submitted By: Vincent Greene on Jul 4, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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An ok photo of the general route. Nice crimps up t...

Description 

Look for a bolted route just to the right of a large obvious roof. Pitch 1: The first bolt is pretty far up on easy climbing. Follow the bolts moving left or right (mostly) for the best holds. The crux is between the last bolt and the chains, and is well protected by the bolt. Someone else will need to fill in details on pitch 2.

Protection 

Bolts and chains


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By Wes Turner
From: az
Jul 9, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I really thought this route was fun albeit short. curx is the last move up onto slabby face before anchors..
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 23, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun climbing, if short. I believe the second pitch is actually pitch 2 of the 5.11 gear climb that stars left of Jack. It was hard to tell this from the guidebook at first. My impression from the description is that the second pitch is still 5.11, but it is bolted. Getting both to the roof and then over it certainly looks harder than 5.9, although the climbing above looks easier.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 24, 2006

Hey Scott, it is confusing. In SQ II #4 The Pagan climbs past the anchors of #5 Jack The Slipper and turns the roof at a hard to reach bolt (if you are under 5'6"). After turning the roof angle left away from bolt line to set up a belay. The Jack the Roofer Variation moves left below ...Slipper's anchors and turns the roof and clips it's own set of anchors. From here you can lower off or if you have gear continue to the top via Pneumatic Bliss or the upper pitch of The Pagan. Hope this helps those who are not in radio contact with me.
By Ryan Clark
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 4, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The first bolt on the second pitch is really loose and sticks out of the wall a fair bit. If you blow the roof move this is the bolt you'll be falling on. Scared me away from the second pitch...
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 4, 2007

only 90 feet. does anyone who has climbed the route see any problems with doing this route as one pitch?
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
May 24, 2009

Jack the Slipper to Pagan Direct 5.11 variation: 1st bolt past Jack anchors is indeed sketchy looking. You can (just barely) get down with a 60m. There are no rap anchors or chains at top, there are regular bolts + webbing + biners up there, you may want to bring webbing+knife to replace/back up part of the anchor, unless you plan on topping out. Very sharp rock at the roof, if toproping you probably want to extend the bolt at the roof and you probably don't want to take too many sideways falls.

Jack the Roofer 5.11 variation: Not really worth doing and probably significantly harder than 11b (holds may have come off). Some hollow blocks under roof. You can aid past the harder part but it's also fairly easy to just clean your draw and traverse back to Jack the Slipper anchors.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This site and the guide say that this is a two pitch 5.9 with total of 90 feet. The second pitch is much harder and its first bolt is mank with very burly thin stuff over the bolt. Not sure there is not a typo but the second 5.9 pitch is missing or mis-rated.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Apr 8, 2013

Mislabeled as two pitches on here, see "Paganizer" route here for description of what you did.