|The North End
Apart from the dank first pitch, this is a really good route and nice warm-up for the Possessed to the right. Start up a greenish ramp angling left to a good belay-fair pro 5.9+
P2 Power over a bulge on rapidly widening finger locks to a hand crack and nice belay ledge-5.11.
The direct start is a tough and slimey 5.12- rarely done.
50' left of the Possessed.
wires to 3"- should be a fixed anchor at the top
|By Jay Knower|
From: Campton, NH
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This is a good route, but the fixed anchor at the top is in terrible shape.
|By David Aguasca!|
From: New York
Sep 20, 2009
The direct start is heinously difficult. Bring a looooong stickclip unless you know can onsight 5.12 technical face.
P.s. This start is now pretty clean...clean enough for climbing, at least.
|By Jeremiah Johnson|
From: Hershey PA
Feb 23, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
It's not too bad to traverse over to the shiny two-bolt anchor for the Possessed and thus avoid the nasty fixed anchor entirely.
|By bayard russell jr|
From: Madison, NH
May 14, 2010
This is a great route, but getting off the ground can leave folks scratching thier heads. The corner start is the way to go, but there is no pro - so try this, hang a draw on the Possessed's first bolt (hard to see from the ground but easy to get to), down climb and use it as a TR for gettin up to the belay ledge. Belay or pull the rope through the draw and keep going. Clean the draw on the way down after traverseing to the Possessed's good two bolt anchor.
This is probably the main reason no one has bothered to fix up that anchor, it's frequently just not used.
|By Adam Winters|
From: the Shire
Sep 29, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
My friend had etriers in his pack so we freed up to the first bolt (v2?) on the direct start then A0'd the last two bolts to the ledge (that face is thiin). Mixes it up and goes quick. 2nd pitch is sweet!
Sep 30, 2011
Not sure why its listed pg13, takes good gear. clean to fall.
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2011
The regular start is a bit nasty and dirty
|By jason seaver|
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 8, 2011
hasan, yeah it's good gear once you get to the crack, but getting to it is probably more like R. That leaning corner has no gear and is dirty Cathedral 5.9.
I think that was my first 5.11 lead! Nice choice.......dumbass.