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Railroad Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Catenary Crack T,TR 
Cop Ripper T,TR 
Cop-Out T,TR 
Face-Off TR 
Jack The Crooked Cop T,TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Lumby Ridge T 
Old Shoes TR 
Pillar, The T,TR 
Pilloried T 
Pine Tree Dihedral T,TR 
Pine Tree Step-Across T,TR 
Railroad Offwidth (aka Birch Tree Dihedral) T,TR 
Right of the Eye T,TR 
Snedegar's Nose T,TR 
Spectacle T,TR 
Tang Shwang T,TR 
Working on the Railroad T,TR 

Jack The Crooked Cop 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, TR, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Oct 4, 2010

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Josh of the HWDAMF getting experimental trying a d...


A sure to be neo-classic this is my favorite line on the wall linking the meat of "Jack the Ripper" with the best part of "Cop Out".

It starts with a tricky boulder problem and follows a thin seam to a no hands rest. Then an airy traverse into a perfect dihedral and through the roof on good holds.


Start on "Jack the Ripper" in the over-hanging seam and follow a thin crack to the left corner. Then head right in the horizontal crack over to the dihedral.


A #4 Camalot can be placed off the ground and then try to place a #3 off a manky sloper or do the boulder problem and place it when stable. Small and nuts and cams thereafter.

Photos of Jack The Crooked Cop Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Vince.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eyeing up the second crux.
Eyeing up the second crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stewart of the HWDAMF working through the beginnin...
Stewart of the HWDAMF working through the beginnin...

Comments on Jack The Crooked Cop Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Oct 4, 2010

This is unfortunately a solid R rated lead only for the boulder problem to start in which there is good pro but it's hard to place until after you are through with it.

I used double ropes on lead to deal with rope drag. On a single line long runners and thought to placements is advised.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 27, 2011

So when does this route become 5.11a? Are the moves below/out of the roof of Cop Out really 5.11 moves?
By Tradoholic
Jun 27, 2011

I thought the boulder problem at the start was definitely 5.11a moves. You're right easier after that except maybe pulling around the roof.

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