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Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
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Lost in Utopia T 
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Stones , The T 

Jack O'Lantern 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Bradley White Oct. 2012
Page Views: 294
Submitted By: bradley white on Oct 23, 2012

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Description 

Start by stepping over oak tree onto friction slab 5 feet to grass ledge little lichen slab to the crack (5.3) on the right. This crack I was surprised to see so low down because it was hidden from my view. It becomes a flake filled in with grasses. The higher part of the crack can be seen from far away. Continue on up left of the crack at the same grade and cleaner rock. Climb standing up on lower angle slab left of the crack. Way, before crack ends in slime and moss traverse to the right. Set yourself up to go straight up the slab, capped by white quartz. Its the only quartz cap on the crag. Its not bad climbing though lichen on it, plenty of good holds. After it, another short slab to grass clumps. Then rock steps up to the 20 foot high bulwark. Wow, problematic spot to go direct. Right there is an escape through birch trees and a easier and secure squeeze fissure can be done. The 10+ foot break in the rock that's the best way for excitement. Its a one move wonder, mental crux happened first ascent because of the commitment to doing a barn door blind faith maneuver. It happened to be 5.4). I was glad. Here there is a horizontal platform sloping ledge. The left side a step over to a stance on the exposed edge and face slab climb above the stance. Opposite side of platform an inclining off width corner crack for 10+ feet. I went out on the stance and up (5.4R) and not clean mostly because of pine needles. Low angle slabs above, they are the clean surfaces of giant chock stone blocks. Blocks go to the rock rim ceiling above, impenetrable except for the suicidal, climbable dyno-bucket left side (a 15-20 foot face with no pro). Below the ceiling right are pine trees for belay. Walk off right up the dirt ramp to the rocky forest. Traverse west onto the top of the pumpkin and sit. Its a perfect rock seat and will sit three or four people.
This may be a bomb or two star route underneath the uncleaned surfaces for trad and sport, but it is alpine and a three star one at that. It has a exposed commitment alpine environment. It reminds of climbing in Maine. It is the only continuance climb to the forest up here. Its got out there exposure adventure. Exciting cruxes and most of the climbs here, have their cruxes nearer to the ground. In my opinion no other (5.4) in Rumney, compares to it for exposure. No other 5.4 has this much elevation. I left some rocks where they rest. Part of the beauty of the place. The forest below is old oak and open. It was free soloed and has had multiple ascents now. I don't know if anyone will visit here so I gave a detailed account of the climb. Kind of took the fun out of it though.

Location 

The slab uphill from the Stones. Start on the Stones and go right when you can up the oak tree gully about 30 ft. The lowest cleanest rock is on the left or west side of this slab. Besides this is a big rock and a good belay stance. There are three starts I've done that go to the same crack.

Protection 

Take a #5 cam to do the off width and bring a couple of larger cams #2-3. Otherwise a very light rack with 4 lost arrow pitons and or small flexible wedge/ball nuts or TCU set and make sure you have at least four of the smallest sizes. Not good stopper cracks. I wandered east after the ascent and was able to gully and forest traverse myself west back to the start of the climbs.


Photos of Jack O'Lantern Slideshow Add Photo
Now for nor big shakes on these chock stones slab ...
Now for nor big shakes on these chock stones slab ...
Original start below the grass clump and the easy ...
BETA PHOTO: Original start below the grass clump and the easy ...
Imagine its a pumpkin stem and across the way on t...
Imagine its a pumpkin stem and across the way on t...
After your on crack go up right of black moss.
After your on crack go up right of black moss.
Climb's finished because of the impenetrable ceili...
Climb's finished because of the impenetrable ceili...
scenery
scenery
Seat with a view.
Seat with a view.
?
?
On crack.
On crack.
At first blind sided at this crux I didn't do it i...
At first blind sided at this crux I didn't do it i...
The fissure and lower down its off width section.
BETA PHOTO: The fissure and lower down its off width section.
The view down and the reality check was I had to g...
The view down and the reality check was I had to g...
?
?
Sloping chill out ledge above the crack below this...
Sloping chill out ledge above the crack below this...
On the top and the exit finish is on the opposite ...
On the top and the exit finish is on the opposite ...
Upper part of the off width. It's not the climbing...
BETA PHOTO: Upper part of the off width. It's not the climbing...
'Hey'
'Hey'
Got to go mental to reach this face scenery becaus...
Got to go mental to reach this face scenery becaus...
big red line to climb.
big red line to climb.

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