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Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
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Stones , The T 

Jack O'Lantern 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c R [details]
FA: Bradley White Oct. 2012
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: bradley white on Oct 23, 2012

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On the top and the exit finish is on the opposite ...

Description 

Step over oak tree onto short friction slab onto traverse ramp. After ramp up low angle slab with crack. Continue up and before crack ends in slime and moss traverse to the right. Go directly up steeper lichen slab capped by white quartz crux. Plenty of good holds. Another short slab to grass clumps. Then rock steps up to the 20 foot high bulwark. Go up direct at the 10+ foot break in the bulwark. Its a one move wonder mental crux barn door blind faith maneuver at 5.4. right to the sloping platform ledge. Go out the left onto the stance exposed edge and step up crux to face climb. Some pine needles. Up low angle exposed slabs above that are giant chock stone blocks. After the blocks the climb is done in the rock rimmed ceiling above. 15 ft. of inclining impenetrable except for the one break above the rocks. Go up right to pine trees for belay. Walk off right up the dirt ramp to the rocky forest. Traversing west there's the bench ledge that looks like the top of a pumpkin. Its a perfect rock seat and will sit three or four people.
Its an alpine three star adventure but in cleanliness a bomb. Reminds me of climbing in Maine. It is the only continuance climb to the forest up here. Exciting cruxes. Best 5.4 in Rumney for elevation exposure. The forest below is open old oak. Repeated free soloed. Tick area.

Location 

The slab uphill from the Stones. Start on the Stones and go right when you can up the oak tree gully about 30 ft. The lowest cleanest rock is on the left or west side of this slab. Besides this is a big rock and a good belay stance. There are three starts I've done that go to the same crack.

Protection 

Take a #5 cam to do the off width and bring a couple of larger cams #2-3. Otherwise a very light rack with 4 lost arrow pitons and or small flexible wedge/ball nuts or TCU set and make sure you have at least four of the smallest sizes. Not good stopper cracks. I wandered east after the ascent and was able to gully and forest traverse myself west back to the start of the climbs.


Photos of Jack O'Lantern Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: ?
?
Rock Climbing Photo: !
!
Rock Climbing Photo: The fissure and lower down its off width section.
BETA PHOTO: The fissure and lower down its off width section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb's finished because of the impenetrable ceili...
Climb's finished because of the impenetrable ceili...
Rock Climbing Photo: Imagine its a pumpkin stem and across the way on t...
Imagine its a pumpkin stem and across the way on t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Original start below the grass clump and the easy ...
BETA PHOTO: Original start below the grass clump and the easy ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sloping chill out ledge above the crack below this...
Sloping chill out ledge above the crack below this...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper part of the off width. It's not the climbing...
BETA PHOTO: Upper part of the off width. It's not the climbing...
Rock Climbing Photo: At first blind sided at this crux I didn't do it i...
At first blind sided at this crux I didn't do it i...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view down and the reality check was I had to g...
The view down and the reality check was I had to g...
Rock Climbing Photo: ?
?
Rock Climbing Photo: scenery
scenery
Rock Climbing Photo: After your on crack go up right of black moss.
After your on crack go up right of black moss.
Rock Climbing Photo: Seat with a view.
Seat with a view.
Rock Climbing Photo: Got to go mental to reach this face scenery becaus...
Got to go mental to reach this face scenery becaus...
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Hey'
'Hey'
Rock Climbing Photo: Now for nor big shakes on these chock stones slab ...
Now for nor big shakes on these chock stones slab ...
Rock Climbing Photo: big red line to climb.
big red line to climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: On crack.
On crack.

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